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Richard Mille RM 061 RM61-01 Very good Carbon 42mm Manual winding
TOP
Richard Mille RM 61-01 Yohan Blake Ultimate Edition Quartz TPT...
Price on request
Free shipping
Professional dealer
365
US
Vacheron Constantin Very good White gold 33mm Manual winding
TOP
Vacheron Constantin オステンデール キャラ メンズ ボーイズ
NZ$ 63,393
Professional dealer
100
JP
Rolex Submariner Date 116610LV Very good Steel 40mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Submariner "Hulk" Reference #: 116610LV
NZ$ 29,538
Professional dealer
90
US
Rolex Submariner (No Date) 14060M Good Steel 40mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex 14060M Submariner No Date Oyster Perpetual
NZ$ 12,882
Professional dealer
197
JP
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 5008D-1130-B64A Unworn Steel Automatic
TOP
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms No Radiation ref. 5008D-1130-B64A New...
NZ$ 41,921
Professional dealer
156
IT
Zenith El Primero Original 1969 03.2150.400/53.C700 Very good Steel Automatic New Zealand, Auckland
Zenith El Primero Original 1969
NZ$ 8,500
Private Seller
NZ
Breguet Classique Complications 3657pt/12/9v6 Very good Platinum 39mm Manual winding
TOP
Breguet Classique Complications 3657PT
NZ$ 83,667
Professional dealer
286
CZ
Rolex Air King 116900 Unworn Steel 40mm Automatic New Zealand, Christchurch
Rolex Air King
NZ$ 11,150
Private Seller
NZ
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 26262OK.00.D002CA.01 Unworn Rose gold 42mm Automatic
TOP
Audemars Piguet Restivo NOS Royal Oak Offshore Quantieme...
NZ$ 312,660
Professional dealer
223
DE
Omega Constellation Day-Date 168.041 Very good 36mm Automatic New Zealand, Rodney, Warkworth
Omega Constellation
NZ$ 1,485
Private Seller
NZ
Seiko Grand Seiko SBGK005 Very good Steel 39mm Manual winding New Zealand, New Plymouth
Seiko Grand Seiko
NZ$ 9,800
Private Seller
NZ
Omega Omega Gold Pocket Watch Very good Yellow gold 47mm Manual winding
TOP
Omega 14K Gold Pocket watch taschenuhr 1923
NZ$ 2,880
Professional dealer
160
HU
Bremont Supermarine S500/BK Good Steel 43mm Automatic New Zealand, Rodney, Warkworth
Bremont Supermarine S500 BK
NZ$ 3,550
Private Seller
NZ
Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea 126660 D-BLUE Very good Steel 44mm Automatic New Zealand, Christchurch
Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea James Cameron D-Blue
NZ$ 25,000
Private Seller
NZ
Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea 126660 Very good Steel 44mm Automatic New Zealand, Christchurch
Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea
NZ$ 20,150
Private Seller
NZ
Omega Speedmaster 3559.3200 Good Steel 42mm Automatic New Zealand, New Plymouth
Omega Speedmaster
NZ$ 8,800
Private Seller
NZ
Rolex GMT-Master II 116713LN Very good Gold/Steel 40mm Automatic New Zealand, Christchurch
Rolex GMT-Master II 18K Gold/Steel
NZ$ 21,068
Private Seller
NZ
Bulgari 103219 New Steel Automatic
TOP
Bulgari Special Edition ROMA 103219
NZ$ 7,616
Professional dealer
156
IT
Patek Philippe Calatrava 5153R-001 New Rose gold 38mm Automatic
TOP
Patek Philippe 5153r Calatrava Automatic 5153R-001 38mm 18k...
NZ$ 43,352
Professional dealer
29
US
Chronoswiss Timemaster CH-2735 Unworn 41mm Automatic New Zealand, Rodney, Warkworth
Chronoswiss Timemaster 150
NZ$ 2,650
Private Seller
NZ
Bulova 63c112 Very good Steel 42mm Automatic New Zealand, Christchurch
Bulova Accu-Swiss Gemini Chronograph
NZ$ 701
Private Seller
NZ
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classique 250.8.86 Very good Steel 33mm Manual winding
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Automatik Edelstahl Herrenuhr Ref....
NZ$ 5,851

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Rolex Explorer 214270 Very good Steel 39mm Automatic New Zealand, Christchurch
Rolex Explorer
NZ$ 13,900
Private Seller
NZ
Rolex GMT-Master II 116713LN New Gold/Steel 40mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex GMT-Master II Black Men's Watch 116713LN-0001
NZ$ 26,444
Free shipping
Professional dealer
637
US
Gérald Genta Rof.m.10 Very good Steel 32mm Automatic
TOP
Gérald Genta Fantasy Retro Disney Mickey Mouse Rof.m.10...
NZ$ 13,432
Professional dealer
141
CZ
Rado 11785-1 Very good Steel 31mm Automatic New Zealand, Auckland
Rado 990
NZ$ 755
Private Seller
NZ
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin 145.840.792 Very good Steel 34mm Manual winding
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Ultrathin Handaufzug Stahl...
NZ$ 5,677

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Patek Philippe 5065/1A Good Steel 38mm Automatic
TOP
Patek Philippe Vintage Aquanaut Jumbo 5065/1A Time Capsule...
NZ$ 82,295
Professional dealer
29
US
Rolex Day-Date 36 1803 Very good Yellow gold 36mm Automatic
Rolex Day-Date 36 18K Gold Automatik Herrenuhr Oyster Perpetua...
NZ$ 21,572

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak E12869 Very good Steel 36mm Automatic
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Automatik Datum Edelstahl Herrenuhr...
NZ$ 17,205

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Rolex Submariner Date 16610T Very good Steel 40mm Automatic
Rolex Submariner Date Automatik Edelstahl Herrenuhr Oyster...
NZ$ 15,458

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch 3569.31.00 Very good Steel 41.5mm Manual winding
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Apollo 11 Panda Face Chronograph...
NZ$ 16,332

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch 311.30.40.30.01.001 Very good Steel 49.7mm Manual winding
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch "Ed White" Chronograph Ref....
NZ$ 28,035

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver 15703ST.OO.A002CA.01 Very good Steel 42mm Automatic
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver Ref. 15703ST.OO.A002C...
NZ$ 39,912

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Rolex Explorer 214270-0003 Very good Steel 39mm Automatic New Zealand, Christchurch
Rolex Explorer
NZ$ 15,525
Private Seller
NZ
Rolex Submariner (No Date) 14060 Very good Steel 40mm Automatic
Rolex Submariner No Date Automatik Stahl Herrenuhr Oyster Ref....
NZ$ 14,061

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Tudor Pelagos 25500TN Very good Titanium 42mm Automatic
Tudor Pelagos Automatik Titan Herrenuhr Saphirglas Ref....
NZ$ 5,502

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 5015 12B40 052A Unworn Titanium 45mm Automatic
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatik Titan Ref. 5015 12B40 052A...
NZ$ 19,650

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Rolex Submariner Date 16610 Very good Steel 40mm Automatic
Rolex Submariner Automatik Stahl Herrenuhr Oyster Perpetual...
NZ$ 14,585

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony 81180 Very good White gold 40mm Manual winding
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony 18K Weissgold Handaufzug...
NZ$ 15,458

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Breitling Chronomat K13050.1 Very good Yellow gold 39mm Automatic
Breitling Chronomat GT Chronograph 18K Gold Automatik Herrenuh...
NZ$ 23,842

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Rolex Oyster Precision 6694 Very good Steel 34mm Manual winding
Rolex Oysterdate Precision Handaufzug Edelstahl Herrenuhr Ref....
NZ$ 5,677

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch 145.0031 Very good Steel 42mm Manual winding
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Snoopy Award Limited Edition Ref....
NZ$ 32,925

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date 15200 Very good Steel 34mm Automatic New Zealand, Nelson
TOP
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date
NZ$ 6,756
Private Seller
NZ
Rolex GMT-Master II 116710BLNR Very good Steel 40mm Automatic
Rolex GMT-Master II Batman Automatik Herrenuhr Oyster Perpetua...
NZ$ 27,161

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Omega Speedmaster 522.30.42.30.06.001 Unworn Steel 42mm Manual winding
Omega Speedmaster Olympic Tokyo 2020 Rising Sun 522.30.42.30.0...
NZ$ 14,585

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Tudor Submariner 79090 Very good Steel 39mm Automatic
Tudor Submariner Prince Oysterdate Automatik Edelstahl...
NZ$ 10,568

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 14790ST.OO.0789ST.09 Very good Steel 36mm Automatic
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Automatik Herrenuhr Ref. 14790ST.OO....
NZ$ 53,187

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control 140.8.89 Very good Steel 37mm Automatic
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Automatik Datum Stahl Herrenuh...
NZ$ 6,026

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph 49140 Very good Steel 40mm Automatic
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Automatik Stahl...
NZ$ 23,668

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Cartier Santos 100 2878 Very good Steel 33mm Automatic
Cartier Santos 100 Medium Automatik Stahl Herrenuhr Ref. W20106X8
NZ$ 6,201

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Rolex Day-Date 36 1803 Very good Yellow gold 36mm Automatic
Rolex Day-Date 36 Sigma Dial 18K Gold Automatik Herrenuhr...
NZ$ 24,192

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Rolex GMT-Master II 116713LN Very good Gold/Steel 40mm Automatic
Rolex GMT Master II Stahl / Gold Automatik Herrenuhr Oyster...
NZ$ 23,842

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Rolex Air King Precision 14000 Very good Steel 34mm Automatic
Rolex Air King Precision Automatik Stahl Herrenuhr Oyster...
NZ$ 7,249

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Rolex Submariner (No Date) 14060M Very good Steel 40mm Automatic
Rolex Submariner No Date Automatik Herrenuhr Oyster Perpetual...
NZ$ 14,585

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Rolex GMT-Master II 16710 Very good Steel 40mm Automatic
Rolex GMT-Master II ''Coke'' Automatik Herrenuhr Oyster...
NZ$ 18,952

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Rolex Day-Date 36 18038 Very good Yellow gold 36mm Automatic
Rolex Day-Date 36 18K Gold Automatik Herrenuhr Oyster Perpetua...
NZ$ 23,318

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea 116660 Very good Steel 43mm Automatic
Rolex Sea Dweller Deepsea Automatik Edelstahl Herrenuhr Ref...
NZ$ 22,096

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Omega Seamaster Diver 300 M 210.22.42.20.01.004 Very good Steel 42mm Automatic
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond 007 Co-Axial Ref....
NZ$ 14,236

Sold by Chrono24

DE
IWC Pilot Chronograph 3706 Very good Steel 39mm Automatic
IWC Schaffhausen Fliegerchronograph Automatik Edelstahl...
NZ$ 5,502

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Cartier Pasha 2113 Very good Steel 38.5mm Automatic
Cartier Pasha Chronograph Automatik Edelstahl Herrenuhr Ref....
NZ$ 6,725

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Rolex Yacht-Master 168622 Very good Steel 35mm Automatic
Rolex Yacht-Master Stahl / Platin Automatik Unisex Oyster...
NZ$ 11,441

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Rolex Yacht-Master 68628 Very good Yellow gold 35mm Automatic
Rolex Yacht-Master 18K (0,750) Gold Herrenuhr Oyster Perpetual...
NZ$ 28,908

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Rolex Milgauss 116400GV Very good Steel 40mm Automatic
Rolex Milgauss Automatik Edelstahl Herrenuhr Oyster Ref....
NZ$ 14,760

Sold by Chrono24

DE

Mechanical Watches: Technical Masterpieces

The mechanical watch is one of humanity's most important cultural innovations. For centuries, watches have been keeping track of time. Today, there is a myriad of environmentally-friendly mechanical watches running precisely without a battery.


This page contains information about:


Highlights

  • Watchmaking art - a fine piece of craftsmanship on your wrist
  • Incredible variety: a watch for every budget and taste
  • No batteries required: manual and automatic calibers
  • Famous diving watches such as the Rolex Submariner
  • Inexpensive automatic watch: Tissot PRS 516

Mechanical Watches: A Cultural Revival

Watch lovers and collectors have been enthusiastically celebrating mechanical watches for decades. Wristwatches from Rolex or Patek Philippe are considered some of the most coveted luxury watches there are, and for good reason. Both manufacturers produce mechanical timepieces that are valuable and maintain their worth. Some vintage models and limited editions even increase in value over the years.

However, there was a time when mechanical watches had a difficult time surviving. With the rise of inexpensive quartz watches in the 1970s, many watch manufacturers found themselves in extreme hardship. Some brands were forced to quit and have since disappeared; today, they are only known by watch experts. Before the quartz boom, mechanical wristwatches and pocket watches were everyday items. If you wanted to know the current time, you needed a watch, and at that time, most had a mechanical movement. However, since quartz watches were less expensive than their mechanical siblings in the mid-1970s, quartz timepieces almost completely wiped mechanical ones off the map.

Mechanical watches experienced a comeback in the beginning of the 1980s, however. Watch lovers and collectors rediscovered the charm of a ticking mechanical movement, and felt able to accept deviations of seconds or minutes. However, it was really about the technology and precision engineering inside the watch. Since most manufacturers switched to making quartz watches, fans of mechanical watches had to find these timepieces at flea markets, auctions, and in leftover stock. In those days, it was easy to get a good bargain. That changed a few years later when the demand for old mechanical watches exceeded the supply. Traditional watch manufacturers noticed this change and began to offer mechanical watches in their collections once again. New brands and manufacturers also began to spring up in abundance, such as the German brand Nomos. Roland Schwertner founded this business in 1990, shortly after the fall of the Berlin Wall.

Classic watchmaking has been experiencing a renaissance and a completely unexpected boom in sales. Wristwatches have transformed from a basic commodity to a status symbol for both men and women.


Introductory Mechanical Watches

There is an abundance of mechanical watches, from inexpensive pre-owned or new models to mid-priced new watches to exclusive pieces which can cost upwards of a million euros. You can find pre-owned vintage watches from brands such as Seiko for less than 100 euros . These watches are often in good condition and are an inexpensive introduction to the world of mechanical watches. You can also find new watches from Japanese manufacturers such as Citizen, Orient, and Seiko in the 100 - 200 euros price range. There are many manufacturers, such as Junkers or Zeppelin, that use Japanese movements from Miyota in their introductory models. Miyota is Citizen's caliber department.

Swiss mechanical watches are also available at inexpensive prices. A used, vintage Tissot watch costs between 100 and 400 euros. A new Tissot PRS 516 , one of their most famous and popular models, costs around 500 euros. A highlight in this collection is the Powermatic 80 variant, with an impressive 80-hour power reserve. It's available for around 700 euros; usually, watches with long power reserves cost a few thousand euros. With an added stopwatch function, a used PRS-516 costs around 1,000 euros. New watches from this series cost around 1,600 euros. Mechanical watches from Certina, Hamilton, or Longines are in a similar price range to Tissot's.


Luxury Mechanical Watches from Omega and Rolex

The Swiss watch manufacturer Omega has an excellent reputation in the watch industry. Their timepieces are defined by their innovative technology, appealing designs, and an excellent price-performance ratio. One of Omega's most popular models is the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. This chronograph was the first to reach the Moon. Pre-owned models in very good condition are available for around 2,500 euros. New, the Speedmaster Professional costs at least 3,000 euros. Special editions like the Silver Snoopy Award Limited Edition have doubled in value: originally, the watch cost 5,900 euros, while it now costs 12,000 euros new.

Rolex is probably the most famous watch brand worldwide. There's no other brand that stands for luxury and prestige like Rolex does. The Submariner and the Daytona are two of the most sought-after Rolex models. The bicolor Daytona is available pre-owned starting for around 8,500 euros. Pre-owned Daytonas made of stainless steel, however, cost at least 10,000 euros. New, the bicolor model costs 10,000 euros; a new stainless steel model costs around 14,000 euros. Stainless steel Rolex watches are especially in demand and thus maintain a more stable value. The Paul Newman Daytona is also quite popular. This model can be identified by its contrasting dial edges and subdials. The numbers on the dial are in an Art Deco style. Models with reference number 6239 are particularly rare. If they feature a Paul Newman design, these watches can easily cost over 100,000 euros.

The Rolex Submariner, one of the first diving watches ever produced, is available pre-owned for around 4,500 euros. New models without a date display and the distinctive date magnifier cost about 6,000 euros. With a date display, the Submariner costs around 7,000 euros. A vintage Submariner with reference number 1680 and red writing on the dial costs between 10,000 and 20,000 euros. It earned its nickname "Red Sub" thanks to its characteristic red text.


Manual Winding Mechanical Watches

Every mechanical movement has multiple gears. In each movement, the energy for the movement of the wheels comes from a specific storage. In large grandfather clocks, these are weights attached to chains, and the chains must be pulled in order to wind the movement. Pocket watches and wristwatches, on the other hand, have mainsprings which can be wound via a key or a crown. The potential energy stored in the wound mainspring is released to the train in a controlled fashion. Mainsprings were also what made it possible to downsize movements. Another pioneering invention was the concept of crown winding, which made easy-to-lose keys obsolete. One of the first pocket watches with crown winding came from Louis Audemars. The business introduced this watch feature in 1838. You can also set the hands using the crown.

A mechanical movement functions very simply in theory. The mainspring receives its energy via the crown, winding stem, and wheels of the winding system. In order to prevent the mainspring from suddenly unrolling, there's a small stopwork. The train reduces the high force of the mainspring. The train's transmission is calculated so precisely that the seconds wheel makes a full rotation every minute. The escapement is located at the end. It's comprised of a pallet and an escape wheel. The escapement prevents the train from going out of control, and it ensures the watch keeps running by forwarding tiny force pulses to the balance wheel. The balance wheel keeps the pace of the movement, oscillating back and forth. It's comprised of the balance rim and balance spring, which is the beating heart of every mechanical caliber. Without the balance spring, the balance wheel along with the entire movement would stop moving after a short time. Thus, the escapement and oscillation systems form the base of every mechanical watch.

The motion train is located under the dial. Generally, this reduces the center wheel's number of revolutions by one-twelfth. The center wheel makes one rotation on its own axis every 60 minutes. Thus, the hour hand makes one full rotation every 12 hours.

Several different manufacturers are still producing manual winding mechanical calibers, such as Junghans, Nomos, Patek Philippe, and Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Technical Details of Manual Winding Watches

  • Movement design allows for flat cases
  • Manual winding
  • Runs without a battery for up to 8 days

Automatic Mechanical Watches

The invention of automatic winding revolutionized the mechanical watch, as automatic watches wind themselves just by being worn. The regular morning ritual of winding your wristwatch ceased to exist. In order for the watch to automatically wind, a rotor is used. Thanks to the constant force of gravity, it's always being pulled towards the center of the Earth. When you move your arm up and down, the rotor rotates around in the case and winds the mainspring.

Winding occurs uni- or bidirectionally, depending on the movement. A bidirectional winding system has the advantage that the movement's winding rotor is wound to the right and to the left. A unidirectional winding system powers the movement by winding it in one direction. Therefore, it takes longer to fully wind the watch. The Pellaton winding system is an especially efficient winding system. It winds the movement bidirectionally, using small movements of the oscillating mass. The inventor of the Pellaton winding system was Albert Pellaton, the technical director at the International Watch Company from 1944 to 1966.

Both winding systems have a so-called reduction gear. This converts the fast movements of the rotor into slower ones with a higher torque. The end of the mainspring is not directly connected to the barrel. Rather, the end is connected to the so-called slipping spring so that the mainspring doesn't break off. When the movement is fully wound, the slipping spring slides along the inner wall of the barrel.

Mechanical watches with an automatic caliber have many advantages to offer. For one, they're convenient, as they don't need to be wound by hand. They also don't require batteries to run, making them generally more environmentally friendly than quartz watches. Generally, automatic movements are also more precise than manual movements, as the oscillating mass provides constant tension to the mainspring. That involves constant torque, which positively affects the amplitude. Amplitude is a term referring to the degree of rotation the balance wheel moves per oscillation.

Amongst watchmakers, the in-house, automatic Rolex calibers are considered some of the best, most robust, and most precise movements in existence.

Technical Details of Automatic Watches

  • Wind automatically while being worn
  • Often more precise than manual winding watches
  • Environmentally friendly: no battery

Mechanical Watches with Special Complications

Most mechanical watches limit themselves to displaying the time and the date. Automatic winding is one of the most common complications utilized in watches. A complication is a function of a mechanical movement that goes beyond displaying the hours, minutes, and seconds. Watchmakers also differentiate between small and large complications. Small complications are, for example, date or day of the week displays or power reserve indicators. A diving watch's rotatable bezel, moon phase display, or a GMT watch's second time zone are also small complications. Complications like minute repetition, perpetual calendars, and large and small striking works are considered large complications . A stopwatch function is also a large complication. In comparison to a perpetual calendar, a stopwatch function is similarly intricate, but more common and much less expensive.

The Swiss manufacturer Patek Philippe is known for their especially complicated watches. Their 1932 Graves Supercomplication pocket watch, as well as the Calibre 89 from 1989, are considered some of their most intricate pieces. The Graves Supercomplication, a special project for the New York banker Henry Graves, Jr., has an impressive 24 complications. Among these complications are a perpetual calendar, double chronograph to time intervening periods, and different astronomical displays. In 1989, the Calibre 89 replaced the Graves Supercomplication as the most complicated pocket watch in the world. The Calibre 89 has 33 different functions and remains one of the most complicated pocket watches in the world to date. It has a full perpetual calendar, a split-seconds chronograph, an indicator for the moon's age and phases, astronomical functions, a minute repeater, an alarm, and both a grande and petite sonnerie.

One of the most complicated wristwatches in the world is the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime with 20 complications. The timepiece has multiple acoustic complications, such as a minute repeater, petite sonnerie, grand sonnerie , an alarm with time strike, and a perpetual date repeater. The watch can also function as an alarm. It can even chime the time. Furthermore, it displays a second time zone, a perpetual calendar, power reserve indicators for the going train and strikework, a day and night display, and a moon phase display. The caliber 300 GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM, which powers the Grandmaster Chime, is comprised of 1,366 pieces. The watch's red gold case is very finely chiseled, and in order to display all of the complications, the watch has a dial on the front and back side. Patek Philippe calls this "double face." There are only seven Grandmaster Chime watches in the world, one of which is located in the Patek Philippe Museum. This extravagant watch costs around 6.4 million euros.