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Richard Mille RM 011 RM11-03 Ultimate Edition New Carbon 44.5mm Automatic
TOP
Richard Mille (New) RM 11-03 Automatic Flyback Chronograph
NZ$ 906,498
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
5
HK
Movado 14806 Good Steel 36mm Manual winding
TOP
Movado Triple Calendar Winding 1950s Vintage 36mm Wrist Watch...
NZ$ 2,172
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
195
US
Omega Very good Yellow gold 40mm Manual winding
TOP
Omega 1970s Very Rare Extra Wide Diamond Set Teak Wood Dial 18...
NZ$ 21,732
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
33
US
Jaeger-LeCoultre Very good Steel 37mm Automatic
TOP
Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox Vintage Speed Beat 2 YEAR WARRANTY...
NZ$ 6,514
Verified Dealer
97
BE
Bell & Ross BR 01-97 Réserve de Marche BR 01-97 Very good Steel 46mm Automatic
TOP
Bell & Ross BR 01-97 Réserve de Marche Limited Edition 250...
NZ$ 18,441
Verified Dealer
179
DE
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Small Q2438520 Very good Steel 42.9mm Manual winding New Zealand, Auckland
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Medium Small Seconds
NZ$ 6,500
Private Seller
NZ
IWC Portuguese Automatic IW500104 Very good Platinum 42mm Automatic
TOP
IWC Portugieser 7 Days ( Limited Edition ) Platinum
NZ$ 37,849
Verified Dealer
48
NL
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Chronograph 175.8.C1 Unworn Steel 42mm Automatic
TOP
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Chronograph
NZ$ 11,215
Verified Dealer
107
CH
Hublot Big Bang Unico 411.CX.1113.LR.WPT17 Very good Ceramic 45mm Automatic
TOP
Hublot Big Bang Unico World Poker Tour All Black
NZ$ 33,096
Verified Dealer
53
DE
Hublot Classic Fusion Aerofusion 525.CF.0130.RX.ORL19 New Ceramic 44mm Automatic
TOP
Hublot 200 PCS. LIMITED EDITION - Classic Fusion Aerofusion...
NZ$ 31,695
Verified Dealer
67
CH
Tudor Pelagos 25500TN Very good Titanium 42mm Manual winding New Zealand, 1042
Tudor Pelagos
NZ$ 5,100
Private Seller
NZ
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date 1500 Very good Yellow gold 34mm Automatic
Rolex Date 34 18K (0,750) Gold Automatik Herrenuhr Oyster...
NZ$ 13,819

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo 15202BA.OO.1240BA.01 Very good Yellow gold 39mm Automatic
TOP
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo 15202 Yellow Gold Blue Dial 39mm
NZ$ 126,639
Verified Dealer
56
UK
Omega Seamaster Diver 300 M 2532.80.00 Very good Steel 41mm Automatic New Zealand, Papamoa
Omega Seamaster Diver 300 M
NZ$ 3,287
Private Seller
NZ
IWC Very good Yellow gold 35mm Automatic
TOP
IWC DE LUXE 18K Gold 1961 Automatic Cal. 853
NZ$ 7,658
Verified Dealer
104
DE
Frederique Constant Manufacture Slimline Perpetual Calendar FC-775V4S4 New Steel 42mm Automatic
TOP
Frederique Constant Manufacture Slimline Perpetual Calendar...
NZ$ 8,978
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
58
FR
Arnold & Son True Moon 1TMAS.U03A.C42B New Steel 46mm Automatic
TOP
Arnold & Son True Moon
NZ$ 13,816
Verified Dealer
107
CH
Breguet Classique 5140BB/12/9W6 Very good White gold 40mm Automatic
TOP
Breguet Classique Automatic Extra-thin Breguet 18KT White Gold...
NZ$ 14,374
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
814
NL
Breitling Bentley Barnato A41390AP/A754/218S Very good Steel 42mm Automatic
TOP
Breitling for Bentley Barnato 42 Diamondworks - LIMITED EDITION
NZ$ 26,819
Verified Dealer
67
CH
Corum Admiral's Cup Legend 42 395.101.22.F373.WB12 New Steel 42 mmmm Automatic
TOP
Corum Admiral Legend 42
NZ$ 5,193
Verified Dealer
89
ES
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony 85180/2 Very good Yellow gold 40mm Automatic
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony 18K Gold Automatik Herrenuhr...
NZ$ 22,639

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Franck Muller Double Mystery franck muller double mystery DM42 BAG CD Unworn Rose gold 42mm Automatic
TOP
Franck Muller double mystery Diamond and Ruby 18 Carat Rose Gold
NZ$ 134,432
Verified Dealer
14
UK
IWC 521708 Good Yellow gold 36mm Manual winding New Zealand, Papamoa
IWC K18 Sold gold Antique Cal.89 Hand Winding Men's Watch
NZ$ 2,244
Private Seller
NZ
Corum Admiral's Cup AC-One 116.101.20/F249 TB20 New Steel 45mm Automatic
TOP
Corum Admiral's Cup AC-One
NZ$ 8,177
Verified Dealer
77
ES
IWC IWC Cal. 67 Very good Steel 49mm Manual winding
TOP
IWC Cal. 67 Steel pocket watch taschenuhr 1937
NZ$ 1,935
Verified Dealer
118
HU
Graham Silverstone 2BLCH.B33A New Steel 46mm Automatic
TOP
Graham Stowe GMT Flyback EDITION LIMITEE
NZ$ 7,293
Verified Dealer
107
CH
Rolex Yacht-Master 169623 Very good Gold/Steel 29mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Yacht-Master Date Automatic Steel & Yellow Gold - 169623
NZ$ 7,392
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
814
NL
Rolex Lady-Datejust 179179 New White gold 26mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Lady-Datejust President Mother or Pearl 179179 White Gold
NZ$ 20,261
Verified Dealer
788
US
Corum Admiral's Cup AC-One 277.101.04/F373 AB12 New Titanium 45mm Automatic
TOP
Corum Admiral's Cup AC-One
NZ$ 11,443
Verified Dealer
89
ES
IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar 3750 Very good Yellow gold 39mm Automatic
IWC Da Vinci Ewiger Kalender 18K Gold Chronograph Automatik...
NZ$ 13,467

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Richard Mille RM 011 RM11-03 RG Unworn Rose gold Automatic
TOP
Richard Mille Rm11-03 Rose/Titanium NEW FULL SET
NZ$ 413,703
Verified Dealer
12
DE
Girard Perregaux Sea Hawk 49920-11-652-FK6A Unworn Steel Automatic New Zealand, Auckland
Girard Perregaux Sea Hawk II America's Cup BMW Oracle Racing
NZ$ 9,682
Private Seller
NZ
Omega Seamaster 2808-SC6 Good Steel 33mm Automatic
TOP
Omega Seamaster Automatic rare cal. 471 / Vintage 1956/ Serviced
NZ$ 1,338
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
252
PL
IWC IWC De Luxe Very good Yellow gold 34mm Manual winding
TOP
IWC De Luxe vintage 18K Gold 1960
NZ$ 3,431
Verified Dealer
118
HU
Graham Silverstone RS 2STEA.B15A New Steel 46mm Automatic
TOP
Graham Silverstone RS Racing
NZ$ 6,339
Verified Dealer
107
CH
IWC Portuguese Automatic IW500001 Very good Steel 42mm Automatic
TOP
IWC Portugieser Automatic 2000 Limited Steel Series - IW5000
NZ$ 10,299
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
814
NL
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 522.32.40.20.04.001 522.32.40.20.04.002 522.32.40.20.04.003 522.32.40.20.04.004 New Steel 39.5mm Automatic
TOP
Omega Olympic 2008 Beijing China 522.32.40.20.04.001
NZ$ 43,297
Verified Dealer
788
US
Corum Admiral's Cup Legend 42 984.101.20.V720.AA12 New Steel Automatic
TOP
Corum ADMIRAL 42 CHRONOGRAPH
NZ$ 7,552
Verified Dealer
89
ES
Panerai Luminor GMT Automatic PAM01033 Very good Steel 44mm Automatic
Panerai Luminor GMT Automatik Stahl Herrenuhr Ref. PAM01033...
NZ$ 12,587

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked 15407BC.GG.1224BC.01 New White gold 41mm Automatic
TOP
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Frosted White Gold Skeleton Ref.15407BC
NZ$ 272,692
Verified Dealer
12
DE
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 2908.50.83 Good Steel 45mm Automatic New Zealand, Whangarei
Omega Seamaster Professional Planet Ocean.
NZ$ 4,800
Private Seller
NZ
Omega Very good Steel 33mm Manual winding
TOP
Omega Steel Mens vintage 1985 Mechanical 285 / Serviced
NZ$ 1,567
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
252
PL
Vacheron Constantin Vacheron & Constantin Very good Yellow gold 27mm Manual winding
TOP
Vacheron Constantin Cal 1014 vintage 18K Gold 1973
NZ$ 3,871
Verified Dealer
118
HU
Frederique Constant Manufacture Worldtimer FC-718WM4H6 New Steel Automatic
TOP
Frederique Constant Worldtimer Automatic FC-718WM4H6
NZ$ 2,985
Verified Dealer
339
US
Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse 3648 Very good White gold 32mm Manual winding
TOP
Patek Philippe Ellipse 18K White Gold Spider Web Character...
NZ$ 8,624
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
814
NL
Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece MP6518-SS001-130-1 New Steel 43mm Automatic
TOP
Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Double Rétrograde GMT Automatik...
NZ$ 5,251
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
1878
DE
Hamilton Jazzmaster Maestro H32576141 New Steel 41mm Automatic
TOP
Hamilton Jazzmaster Maestro
NZ$ 2,104
Verified Dealer
89
ES
Rolex Cellini 5241 Very good Platinum 38mm Manual winding
Rolex Cellini Cellinium Ice Glacier Blue 950 Platin Handaufzug...
NZ$ 17,340

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15410BC.GG.1224BC.01 New White gold 41mm Automatic
TOP
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Frosted Blue Dial NEW
NZ$ 140,659
Verified Dealer
12
DE
IWC Pilot Mark IW327001 Very good Steel 40mm Automatic New Zealand, Papamoa
IWC Pilot Mark
NZ$ 4,919
Private Seller
NZ
Longines Good Steel 37,5mm Manual winding
TOP
Longines W.W.W. Dirty Dozen British Army World WarII/Archives...
NZ$ 13,907
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
252
PL
Hamilton Intra-Matic H38416711 New Steel 40mm Automatic
TOP
Hamilton AMERICAN CLASSIC INTRA-MATIC AUTO CHRONO
NZ$ 2,649
Verified Dealer
211
ES
Frederique Constant Manufacture Worldtimer FC-718WM4H4 New Gold/Steel Automatic
TOP
Frederique Constant Worldtimer Automatic FC-718WM4H4
NZ$ 3,282
Verified Dealer
339
US
Patek Philippe Calatrava 3442/1 Very good Yellow gold 28mm Manual winding
TOP
Patek Philippe Calatrava Full 18K Yellow Gold RARE Bracelet...
NZ$ 15,842
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
814
NL
Sinn 103 103.0619 New Steel 41mm Automatic
TOP
Sinn 103 St Sa RB Classic Watch Sondermodell
NZ$ 4,313
Verified Dealer
145
DE
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 5000-0240-O52A Very good Ceramic 43.6mm Automatic
TOP
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 5000-0240-O52A
NZ$ 12,967
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
1248
US
Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch ST145.022 Very good Gold/Steel 42mm Manual winding
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Italy Special Limitiert Stahl /...
NZ$ 13,643

Sold by Chrono24

DE
PAM 00676 Very good Steel 42mm Manual winding New Zealand, Auckland
MINT Panerai Luminor PAM676 42mm 3 day Manual wind Mens watch...
NZ$ 8,900
Verified Dealer
25
NZ
TAG Heuer Link Calibre 16 CAT2017.BA0952 Good Steel 43mm Automatic New Zealand, Auckland
TAG Heuer Link Calibre 16
NZ$ 4,000
Private Seller
NZ
Omega 161033 Very good Yellow gold 33,5mm Automatic
TOP
Omega Automatic 14K / 585 Solid Gold /Vintage 1966 /Serviced
NZ$ 2,641
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
252
PL
Hamilton Intra-Matic H38416541 New Steel 40mm Automatic
TOP
Hamilton AMERICAN CLASSIC INTRA-MATIC AUTO CHRONO
NZ$ 2,649
Verified Dealer
211
ES
Frederique Constant Slimline Automatic FC-723NR3S6 New Steel Automatic
TOP
Frederique Constant Slimline Power Reserve Automatic FC-723NR3S6
NZ$ 2,391
Verified Dealer
339
US
Blancpain Léman Réveil GMT 2041-1130M-53B Very good Steel 40mm Automatic
TOP
Blancpain Leman Reveil Automatic GMT Alarm Power Reserve Dial...
NZ$ 16,363
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
814
NL
Tissot Good Steel 43mm Manual winding
TOP
Tissot T12 Chronograph - Lemania 873 - Tissot Bracelet -...
NZ$ 5,066
Verified Dealer
32
UK

Mechanical Watches: Technical Masterpieces

The mechanical watch is one of humanity's most important cultural innovations. For centuries, watches have been keeping track of time. Today, there is a myriad of environmentally-friendly mechanical watches running precisely without a battery.


This page contains information about:


Highlights

  • Watchmaking art - a fine piece of craftsmanship on your wrist
  • Incredible variety: a watch for every budget and taste
  • No batteries required: manual and automatic calibers
  • Famous diving watches such as the Rolex Submariner
  • Inexpensive automatic watch: Tissot PRS 516

Mechanical Watches: A Cultural Revival

Watch lovers and collectors have been enthusiastically celebrating mechanical watches for decades. Wristwatches from Rolex or Patek Philippe are considered some of the most coveted luxury watches there are, and for good reason. Both manufacturers produce mechanical timepieces that are valuable and maintain their worth. Some vintage models and limited editions even increase in value over the years.

However, there was a time when mechanical watches had a difficult time surviving. With the rise of inexpensive quartz watches in the 1970s, many watch manufacturers found themselves in extreme hardship. Some brands were forced to quit and have since disappeared; today, they are only known by watch experts. Before the quartz boom, mechanical wristwatches and pocket watches were everyday items. If you wanted to know the current time, you needed a watch, and at that time, most had a mechanical movement. However, since quartz watches were less expensive than their mechanical siblings in the mid-1970s, quartz timepieces almost completely wiped mechanical ones off the map.

Mechanical watches experienced a comeback in the beginning of the 1980s, however. Watch lovers and collectors rediscovered the charm of a ticking mechanical movement, and felt able to accept deviations of seconds or minutes. However, it was really about the technology and precision engineering inside the watch. Since most manufacturers switched to making quartz watches, fans of mechanical watches had to find these timepieces at flea markets, auctions, and in leftover stock. In those days, it was easy to get a good bargain. That changed a few years later when the demand for old mechanical watches exceeded the supply. Traditional watch manufacturers noticed this change and began to offer mechanical watches in their collections once again. New brands and manufacturers also began to spring up in abundance, such as the German brand Nomos. Roland Schwertner founded this business in 1990, shortly after the fall of the Berlin Wall.

Classic watchmaking has been experiencing a renaissance and a completely unexpected boom in sales. Wristwatches have transformed from a basic commodity to a status symbol for both men and women.


Introductory Mechanical Watches

There is an abundance of mechanical watches, from inexpensive pre-owned or new models to mid-priced new watches to exclusive pieces which can cost upwards of a million euros. You can find pre-owned vintage watches from brands such as Seiko for less than 100 euros . These watches are often in good condition and are an inexpensive introduction to the world of mechanical watches. You can also find new watches from Japanese manufacturers such as Citizen, Orient, and Seiko in the 100 - 200 euros price range. There are many manufacturers, such as Junkers or Zeppelin, that use Japanese movements from Miyota in their introductory models. Miyota is Citizen's caliber department.

Swiss mechanical watches are also available at inexpensive prices. A used, vintage Tissot watch costs between 100 and 400 euros. A new Tissot PRS 516 , one of their most famous and popular models, costs around 500 euros. A highlight in this collection is the Powermatic 80 variant, with an impressive 80-hour power reserve. It's available for around 700 euros; usually, watches with long power reserves cost a few thousand euros. With an added stopwatch function, a used PRS-516 costs around 1,000 euros. New watches from this series cost around 1,600 euros. Mechanical watches from Certina, Hamilton, or Longines are in a similar price range to Tissot's.


Luxury Mechanical Watches from Omega and Rolex

The Swiss watch manufacturer Omega has an excellent reputation in the watch industry. Their timepieces are defined by their innovative technology, appealing designs, and an excellent price-performance ratio. One of Omega's most popular models is the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. This chronograph was the first to reach the Moon. Pre-owned models in very good condition are available for around 2,500 euros. New, the Speedmaster Professional costs at least 3,000 euros. Special editions like the Silver Snoopy Award Limited Edition have doubled in value: originally, the watch cost 5,900 euros, while it now costs 12,000 euros new.

Rolex is probably the most famous watch brand worldwide. There's no other brand that stands for luxury and prestige like Rolex does. The Submariner and the Daytona are two of the most sought-after Rolex models. The bicolor Daytona is available pre-owned starting for around 8,500 euros. Pre-owned Daytonas made of stainless steel, however, cost at least 10,000 euros. New, the bicolor model costs 10,000 euros; a new stainless steel model costs around 14,000 euros. Stainless steel Rolex watches are especially in demand and thus maintain a more stable value. The Paul Newman Daytona is also quite popular. This model can be identified by its contrasting dial edges and subdials. The numbers on the dial are in an Art Deco style. Models with reference number 6239 are particularly rare. If they feature a Paul Newman design, these watches can easily cost over 100,000 euros.

The Rolex Submariner, one of the first diving watches ever produced, is available pre-owned for around 4,500 euros. New models without a date display and the distinctive date magnifier cost about 6,000 euros. With a date display, the Submariner costs around 7,000 euros. A vintage Submariner with reference number 1680 and red writing on the dial costs between 10,000 and 20,000 euros. It earned its nickname "Red Sub" thanks to its characteristic red text.


Manual Winding Mechanical Watches

Every mechanical movement has multiple gears. In each movement, the energy for the movement of the wheels comes from a specific storage. In large grandfather clocks, these are weights attached to chains, and the chains must be pulled in order to wind the movement. Pocket watches and wristwatches, on the other hand, have mainsprings which can be wound via a key or a crown. The potential energy stored in the wound mainspring is released to the train in a controlled fashion. Mainsprings were also what made it possible to downsize movements. Another pioneering invention was the concept of crown winding, which made easy-to-lose keys obsolete. One of the first pocket watches with crown winding came from Louis Audemars. The business introduced this watch feature in 1838. You can also set the hands using the crown.

A mechanical movement functions very simply in theory. The mainspring receives its energy via the crown, winding stem, and wheels of the winding system. In order to prevent the mainspring from suddenly unrolling, there's a small stopwork. The train reduces the high force of the mainspring. The train's transmission is calculated so precisely that the seconds wheel makes a full rotation every minute. The escapement is located at the end. It's comprised of a pallet and an escape wheel. The escapement prevents the train from going out of control, and it ensures the watch keeps running by forwarding tiny force pulses to the balance wheel. The balance wheel keeps the pace of the movement, oscillating back and forth. It's comprised of the balance rim and balance spring, which is the beating heart of every mechanical caliber. Without the balance spring, the balance wheel along with the entire movement would stop moving after a short time. Thus, the escapement and oscillation systems form the base of every mechanical watch.

The motion train is located under the dial. Generally, this reduces the center wheel's number of revolutions by one-twelfth. The center wheel makes one rotation on its own axis every 60 minutes. Thus, the hour hand makes one full rotation every 12 hours.

Several different manufacturers are still producing manual winding mechanical calibers, such as Junghans, Nomos, Patek Philippe, and Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Technical Details of Manual Winding Watches

  • Movement design allows for flat cases
  • Manual winding
  • Runs without a battery for up to 8 days

Automatic Mechanical Watches

The invention of automatic winding revolutionized the mechanical watch, as automatic watches wind themselves just by being worn. The regular morning ritual of winding your wristwatch ceased to exist. In order for the watch to automatically wind, a rotor is used. Thanks to the constant force of gravity, it's always being pulled towards the center of the Earth. When you move your arm up and down, the rotor rotates around in the case and winds the mainspring.

Winding occurs uni- or bidirectionally, depending on the movement. A bidirectional winding system has the advantage that the movement's winding rotor is wound to the right and to the left. A unidirectional winding system powers the movement by winding it in one direction. Therefore, it takes longer to fully wind the watch. The Pellaton winding system is an especially efficient winding system. It winds the movement bidirectionally, using small movements of the oscillating mass. The inventor of the Pellaton winding system was Albert Pellaton, the technical director at the International Watch Company from 1944 to 1966.

Both winding systems have a so-called reduction gear. This converts the fast movements of the rotor into slower ones with a higher torque. The end of the mainspring is not directly connected to the barrel. Rather, the end is connected to the so-called slipping spring so that the mainspring doesn't break off. When the movement is fully wound, the slipping spring slides along the inner wall of the barrel.

Mechanical watches with an automatic caliber have many advantages to offer. For one, they're convenient, as they don't need to be wound by hand. They also don't require batteries to run, making them generally more environmentally friendly than quartz watches. Generally, automatic movements are also more precise than manual movements, as the oscillating mass provides constant tension to the mainspring. That involves constant torque, which positively affects the amplitude. Amplitude is a term referring to the degree of rotation the balance wheel moves per oscillation.

Amongst watchmakers, the in-house, automatic Rolex calibers are considered some of the best, most robust, and most precise movements in existence.

Technical Details of Automatic Watches

  • Wind automatically while being worn
  • Often more precise than manual winding watches
  • Environmentally friendly: no battery

Mechanical Watches with Special Complications

Most mechanical watches limit themselves to displaying the time and the date. Automatic winding is one of the most common complications utilized in watches. A complication is a function of a mechanical movement that goes beyond displaying the hours, minutes, and seconds. Watchmakers also differentiate between small and large complications. Small complications are, for example, date or day of the week displays or power reserve indicators. A diving watch's rotatable bezel, moon phase display, or a GMT watch's second time zone are also small complications. Complications like minute repetition, perpetual calendars, and large and small striking works are considered large complications . A stopwatch function is also a large complication. In comparison to a perpetual calendar, a stopwatch function is similarly intricate, but more common and much less expensive.

The Swiss manufacturer Patek Philippe is known for their especially complicated watches. Their 1932 Graves Supercomplication pocket watch, as well as the Calibre 89 from 1989, are considered some of their most intricate pieces. The Graves Supercomplication, a special project for the New York banker Henry Graves, Jr., has an impressive 24 compli