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Panerai Special Editions PAM00200 Very good 45mm Manual winding
TOP
Panerai Швейцарские Часы Radiomir 8...
NZ$ 17,775
Professional dealer
 
RU
Breguet Marine 5827BR/Z2/5ZU Very good Rose gold 42mm Automatic
TOP
Breguet Marine Chronograph Rose Gold
NZ$ 28,552
Free shipping
Professional dealer
660
ES
Patek Philippe Calatrava 7200/50G-010 Very good White gold 34mm
TOP
Patek Philippe Calatrava New York 2017 Edition 7200/50g-010...
NZ$ 50,053
Professional dealer
321
US
Ulysse Nardin 353-68LE-3 Very good Steel 41mm Automatic
TOP
Ulysse Nardin Швейцарские Часы Maxi...
NZ$ 5,830
Professional dealer
 
RU
Ulysse Nardin Classic Ulysse Anchor Tourbillon 1786-133 Very good Rose gold 44mm Manual winding
TOP
Ulysse Nardin Anchor Tourbillon Limited Edition 44 mm 18K R/G...
NZ$ 59,583
Professional dealer
112
US
Breguet Classique Complications 5317BR/12/9V6 New Rose gold 39mm Automatic
TOP
Breguet Classique Tourbillon, new, rose gold, 5-days power-res...
NZ$ 113,279
Professional dealer
57
CH
71950110 Unworn Steel 40.5mm Manual winding New Zealand, Unsworth Heights
Luch Mova Collection
NZ$ 230
Private Seller
NZ
Rolex GMT-Master II 16710 Good Steel 40mm Automatic New Zealand
Rolex GMT-Master II
NZ$ 19,500
Free shipping
Professional dealer
NZ
Piaget 9015 Very good Yellow gold 27mm Manual winding
Piaget Ultrathin 18K (0,750) Gold Handaufzug Damenuhr Ref....
NZ$ 3,687

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Omega Speedmaster 36233300 Unworn Rose gold 39mm Automatic
TOP
Omega Speedmaster 39mm Ref#3623.33.01
NZ$ 14,626
Professional dealer
839
US
Rolex Lady-Datejust Pearlmaster 80319 New White gold 29mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Lady-Datejust Pearlmaster, new, white gold, bezel set...
NZ$ 32,840
Professional dealer
57
CH
Hublot Big Bang 41 mm 341.PX.7518.VR.1975 New Rose gold 41mm Automatic
TOP
Hublot Big Bang Zebra, 48 baguette-cut spinels and topazes,...
NZ$ 32,840
Professional dealer
57
CH
Breitling Transocean Chronograph Unitime RB0510U4/BB63 New Rose gold 46mm Automatic
TOP
Breitling Transocean Chronograph Unitime, new, world time...
NZ$ 25,792
Professional dealer
57
CH
Breguet Classique 8788BR12986DD00 New Rose gold 36mm Automatic
TOP
Breguet Classique, new, moon phase, power-reserve indicator, ...
NZ$ 25,019
Professional dealer
57
CH
Jaquet-Droz J016933210 New Rose gold 43mm Automatic
TOP
Jaquet-Droz Grand Date, new, rose gold, 65 hours power-reserve...
NZ$ 17,198
Professional dealer
57
CH
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date 15200 Good Steel 34mm Automatic New Zealand, Hamilton
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date
NZ$ 4,500
Private Seller
NZ
Bell & Ross BR 01 BR01-CSK-CE/SRB New Ceramic 45mm Manual winding New Zealand
Bell & Ross Br 01 Cyber Skull
NZ$ 14,500
Free shipping
Professional dealer
NZ
Rolex Air King 116900 Very good Steel 40mm Automatic
Rolex Air King Automatik Edelstahl Herrenuhr Oyster Perpetual...
NZ$ 12,810

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Breguet Classique 8788BR/29/986 DD00 New Rose gold 36mm Automatic
TOP
Breguet Classique, new, moon phase, power-reserve indicator, ...
NZ$ 25,019
Professional dealer
57
CH
Breguet Tradition 7037BA/11/9V6 New Yellow gold 39mm Automatic
TOP
Breguet Tradition, new, yellow gold
NZ$ 30,833
Professional dealer
57
CH
Breguet Reine de Naples 9807ST/5W/J50 New Steel 32.7mm Automatic
TOP
Breguet Reine de Naples, new, white mother-of-pearl dial,...
NZ$ 15,603
Professional dealer
57
CH
Corum Golden Bridge 313.150.59/0001 FK01 New White gold 51.8mm Automatic
TOP
Corum Golden Bridge, new, white gold, limited edition - no....
NZ$ 35,624
Professional dealer
57
CH
Breguet Héritage 5400BB/12/9V6 New White gold 42mm Automatic
TOP
Breguet Héritage Chronograph, new, white gold, folding clasp
NZ$ 36,993
Professional dealer
57
CH
Breguet Marine 8828BR/5D/RM1 DD00 New Rose gold 34.6mm Automatic
TOP
Breguet Marine chronograph, sapphire crown, 170 diamonds on...
NZ$ 55,318
Professional dealer
57
CH
Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch 3572.50.00 Good Steel 42mm Manual winding New Zealand, New Plymouth
Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch
NZ$ 8,800
Private Seller
NZ
Rolex Explorer II 216570 Very good Steel 42mm Automatic New Zealand
Rolex Explorer II
NZ$ 14,980
Free shipping
Professional dealer
 
NZ
Rolex GMT-Master 16700 Very good Steel 40mm Automatic
Rolex GMT Master Pepsi Automatik Edelstahl Herrenuhr Oyster...
NZ$ 17,748

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Jaquet-Droz Grande Seconde J014013208 New Rose gold 39mm Automatic
TOP
Jaquet-Droz Grande Seconde, new, 68 hours power reserve,...
NZ$ 21,891
Professional dealer
57
CH
Hublot Classic Fusion Ultra-Thin 545.OX.2210.LR New Rose gold 45mm Manual winding
TOP
Hublot Classic Fusion, new, ultra-thin, rose gold, manual wind...
NZ$ 21,891
Professional dealer
57
CH
Breguet Classique 5287BR/92/9ZU New Rose gold 43mm Manual winding
TOP
Breguet Classique Chronograph, rose gold, new, double seconds...
NZ$ 41,725
Professional dealer
57
CH
Jaquet-Droz Astrale J015134222 New White gold 43mm Automatic
TOP
Jaquet-Droz "The Times Zones", new, unique piece - no. 1/1, 68...
NZ$ 29,055
Professional dealer
57
CH
Breguet Reine de Naples 8967ST/V8/J50 New Steel 43mm Automatic
TOP
Breguet Reine de Naples, new, blue mother-of-pearl dial, blue...
NZ$ 16,330
Professional dealer
57
CH
Corum Admiral's Cup Legend 38 132.101.47/V200PN19 New Steel 38mm Automatic
TOP
Corum Admiral's Cup Chronograph, new, steel, 83 diamonds 0.75...
NZ$ 7,031
Professional dealer
57
CH
Zodiac Sea Dragon ZO09913 Very good Steel 50mm Automatic New Zealand, Wellington
Zodiac Sea Dragon
NZ$ 2,000
Private Seller
NZ
Rolex GMT-Master II 16710 Good Steel 40mm Automatic New Zealand
Rolex GMT-Master II
NZ$ 18,900
Free shipping
Professional dealer
 
NZ
Rolex Sea-Dweller 4000 16600 Very good Steel 40mm Automatic
Rolex Sea-Dweller Automatik Stahl Herrenuhr Oyster Perpetual...
NZ$ 15,108

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Breguet GJ24BB8548DDC3 New White gold Automatic
TOP
Breguet Secret de la Reine, paved with 595 diamonds, folding...
NZ$ 77,428
Professional dealer
57
CH
Corum 286.253.55/0001 BN68 New Rose gold 38mm Manual winding
TOP
Corum Vintage Charge d'affairs, new, alarm, manual wind...
NZ$ 12,506
Professional dealer
57
CH
Hublot Classic Fusion Ultra-Thin 545.NX.1270.LR New Titanium 42mm Manual winding
TOP
Hublot Classic Fusion ultra-thin, new, 42mm, titanium, manual...
NZ$ 10,942
Professional dealer
57
CH
Hublot King Power 771.CI.1170.RX New Ceramic 48mm Automatic
TOP
Hublot King Power, new, black ceramic, different time zones
NZ$ 23,455
Professional dealer
57
CH
Bulova 63c112 Very good Steel 42mm Automatic New Zealand, Christchurch
Bulova Accu-Swiss Gemini Chronograph
NZ$ 750
Private Seller
NZ
U-Boat Classico 8105 Very good Steel 47mm Automatic New Zealand, Auckland
U-Boat Classico
NZ$ 1,900
Private Seller
NZ
Omega Speedmaster Date 32105000 Unworn Steel 40mm Automatic New Zealand, Papamoa
Omega Speedmaster Date
NZ$ 4,259
Private Seller
NZ
Rolex Sky-Dweller 326933 New Gold/Steel 42mm Automatic New Zealand
Rolex Sky-Dweller
NZ$ 27,990
Free shipping
Professional dealer
 
NZ
Omega 6b/159 Good Steel 37mm Manual winding New Zealand, Wellington
Omega “Omega 56” 6b/159
NZ$ 5,000
Private Seller
NZ
Movado Poor Manual winding New Zealand, Auckland
Movado Vintage - not sure
NZ$ 1,500
Private Seller
NZ
Rolex Submariner Date 116610LV Very good Steel 40mm Automatic
Rolex Submariner Hulk Automatik Stahl Herrenuhr Oyster...
NZ$ 30,112

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Breitling NB0434E5/BE94 New Carbon 45mm Automatic
TOP
Breitling Bentley GMT, new, chronograph, carbon case and dial,...
NZ$ 19,177
Professional dealer
57
CH
Breguet Classique 5247BR/29/9V6 New Rose gold 39mm Manual winding
TOP
Breguet Classique Chronograph, new, rose gold, tachometer
NZ$ 38,456
Professional dealer
57
CH
TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 CV2011 Good Steel 41mm Automatic New Zealand, 0627
TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16
NZ$ 2,879
Private Seller
NZ
Hublot Classic Fusion Ultra-Thin 515.NX.1270.LR New Titanium 45mm Manual winding
TOP
Hublot Classic Fusion ultra-thin, new, 45mm, titanium, manual...
NZ$ 10,942
Professional dealer
57
CH
Rolex Milgauss 116400 Very good Steel 40mm Automatic
Rolex Milgauss Automatik Edelstahl Herrenuhr Oyster Perpetual...
NZ$ 12,947

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Rolex Explorer II 16570 Very good Steel 40mm Automatic
Rolex Explorer II Automatik Oyster Perpetual Ref. 16570...
NZ$ 12,810

Sold by Chrono24

DE
A. Lange & Söhne 1815 206.027 Very good White gold 36mm Manual winding
A. Lange & Söhne 1815 18K (0,750) Weissgold Handaufzug...
NZ$ 20,321

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Vacheron Constantin Historiques 49002/3 Very good Yellow gold 35mm Automatic
Vacheron Constantin Historiques Chronograph 18K Gold Herrenuhr...
NZ$ 17,217

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Rolex Submariner (No Date) 14060M Very good Steel 40mm Automatic
Rolex Submariner No Date Automatik Herrenuhr Oyster Perpetual...
NZ$ 14,747

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Rolex Submariner Date 16610 Very good Steel 40mm Automatic
Rolex Submariner Automatik Stahl Herrenuhr Oyster Perpetual...
NZ$ 15,108

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Tudor Prince Date 79260P Very good Steel 40mm Automatic
Tudor Prince Date Chronograph Automatik Datum Edelstahl...
NZ$ 7,288

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Rolex GMT-Master II 116710BLNR Very good Steel 40mm Automatic
Rolex GMT-Master II Batman Automatik Herrenuhr Ref. 116710BLNR...
NZ$ 28,003

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Hublot Big Bang Tutti Frutti 341.SL.5190.LR.1901 New Steel 41mm Automatic
TOP
Hublot Big Bang Tutti Frutti, blue ceramic, white gold bezel...
NZ$ 26,583
Professional dealer
57
CH
Rolex Submariner Date 16610 Very good Steel 40mm Automatic
Rolex Submariner Date Automatik Herrenuhr Oyster Perpetual...
NZ$ 14,919

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classique 250.8.86 Very good Steel 33mm Manual winding
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Handaufzug Edelstahl Herrenuhr Ref....
NZ$ 6,036

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch 145.0031 Very good Steel 42mm Manual winding
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Snoopy Award Limited Edition Ref....
NZ$ 35,068

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Rolex Submariner Date 16610 Very good Steel 40mm Automatic
Rolex Submariner Date Automatik Herrenuhr Oyster Perpetual Ref...
NZ$ 16,514

Sold by Chrono24

DE

Mechanical Watches: Technical Masterpieces

The mechanical watch is one of humanity's most important cultural innovations. For centuries, watches have been keeping track of time. Today, there is a myriad of environmentally-friendly mechanical watches running precisely without a battery.


This page contains information about:


Highlights

  • Watchmaking art - a fine piece of craftsmanship on your wrist
  • Incredible variety: a watch for every budget and taste
  • No batteries required: manual and automatic calibers
  • Famous diving watches such as the Rolex Submariner
  • Inexpensive automatic watch: Tissot PRS 516

Mechanical Watches: A Cultural Revival

Watch lovers and collectors have been enthusiastically celebrating mechanical watches for decades. Wristwatches from Rolex or Patek Philippe are considered some of the most coveted luxury watches there are, and for good reason. Both manufacturers produce mechanical timepieces that are valuable and maintain their worth. Some vintage models and limited editions even increase in value over the years.

However, there was a time when mechanical watches had a difficult time surviving. With the rise of inexpensive quartz watches in the 1970s, many watch manufacturers found themselves in extreme hardship. Some brands were forced to quit and have since disappeared; today, they are only known by watch experts. Before the quartz boom, mechanical wristwatches and pocket watches were everyday items. If you wanted to know the current time, you needed a watch, and at that time, most had a mechanical movement. However, since quartz watches were less expensive than their mechanical siblings in the mid-1970s, quartz timepieces almost completely wiped mechanical ones off the map.

Mechanical watches experienced a comeback in the beginning of the 1980s, however. Watch lovers and collectors rediscovered the charm of a ticking mechanical movement, and felt able to accept deviations of seconds or minutes. However, it was really about the technology and precision engineering inside the watch. Since most manufacturers switched to making quartz watches, fans of mechanical watches had to find these timepieces at flea markets, auctions, and in leftover stock. In those days, it was easy to get a good bargain. That changed a few years later when the demand for old mechanical watches exceeded the supply. Traditional watch manufacturers noticed this change and began to offer mechanical watches in their collections once again. New brands and manufacturers also began to spring up in abundance, such as the German brand Nomos. Roland Schwertner founded this business in 1990, shortly after the fall of the Berlin Wall.

Classic watchmaking has been experiencing a renaissance and a completely unexpected boom in sales. Wristwatches have transformed from a basic commodity to a status symbol for both men and women.


Introductory Mechanical Watches

There is an abundance of mechanical watches, from inexpensive pre-owned or new models to mid-priced new watches to exclusive pieces which can cost upwards of a million euros. You can find pre-owned vintage watches from brands such as Seiko for less than 100 euros . These watches are often in good condition and are an inexpensive introduction to the world of mechanical watches. You can also find new watches from Japanese manufacturers such as Citizen, Orient, and Seiko in the 100 - 200 euros price range. There are many manufacturers, such as Junkers or Zeppelin, that use Japanese movements from Miyota in their introductory models. Miyota is Citizen's caliber department.

Swiss mechanical watches are also available at inexpensive prices. A used, vintage Tissot watch costs between 100 and 400 euros. A new Tissot PRS 516 , one of their most famous and popular models, costs around 500 euros. A highlight in this collection is the Powermatic 80 variant, with an impressive 80-hour power reserve. It's available for around 700 euros; usually, watches with long power reserves cost a few thousand euros. With an added stopwatch function, a used PRS-516 costs around 1,000 euros. New watches from this series cost around 1,600 euros. Mechanical watches from Certina, Hamilton, or Longines are in a similar price range to Tissot's.


Luxury Mechanical Watches from Omega and Rolex

The Swiss watch manufacturer Omega has an excellent reputation in the watch industry. Their timepieces are defined by their innovative technology, appealing designs, and an excellent price-performance ratio. One of Omega's most popular models is the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. This chronograph was the first to reach the Moon. Pre-owned models in very good condition are available for around 2,500 euros. New, the Speedmaster Professional costs at least 3,000 euros. Special editions like the Silver Snoopy Award Limited Edition have doubled in value: originally, the watch cost 5,900 euros, while it now costs 12,000 euros new.

Rolex is probably the most famous watch brand worldwide. There's no other brand that stands for luxury and prestige like Rolex does. The Submariner and the Daytona are two of the most sought-after Rolex models. The bicolor Daytona is available pre-owned starting for around 8,500 euros. Pre-owned Daytonas made of stainless steel, however, cost at least 10,000 euros. New, the bicolor model costs 10,000 euros; a new stainless steel model costs around 14,000 euros. Stainless steel Rolex watches are especially in demand and thus maintain a more stable value. The Paul Newman Daytona is also quite popular. This model can be identified by its contrasting dial edges and subdials. The numbers on the dial are in an Art Deco style. Models with reference number 6239 are particularly rare. If they feature a Paul Newman design, these watches can easily cost over 100,000 euros.

The Rolex Submariner, one of the first diving watches ever produced, is available pre-owned for around 4,500 euros. New models without a date display and the distinctive date magnifier cost about 6,000 euros. With a date display, the Submariner costs around 7,000 euros. A vintage Submariner with reference number 1680 and red writing on the dial costs between 10,000 and 20,000 euros. It earned its nickname "Red Sub" thanks to its characteristic red text.


Manual Winding Mechanical Watches

Every mechanical movement has multiple gears. In each movement, the energy for the movement of the wheels comes from a specific storage. In large grandfather clocks, these are weights attached to chains, and the chains must be pulled in order to wind the movement. Pocket watches and wristwatches, on the other hand, have mainsprings which can be wound via a key or a crown. The potential energy stored in the wound mainspring is released to the train in a controlled fashion. Mainsprings were also what made it possible to downsize movements. Another pioneering invention was the concept of crown winding, which made easy-to-lose keys obsolete. One of the first pocket watches with crown winding came from Louis Audemars. The business introduced this watch feature in 1838. You can also set the hands using the crown.

A mechanical movement functions very simply in theory. The mainspring receives its energy via the crown, winding stem, and wheels of the winding system. In order to prevent the mainspring from suddenly unrolling, there's a small stopwork. The train reduces the high force of the mainspring. The train's transmission is calculated so precisely that the seconds wheel makes a full rotation every minute. The escapement is located at the end. It's comprised of a pallet and an escape wheel. The escapement prevents the train from going out of control, and it ensures the watch keeps running by forwarding tiny force pulses to the balance wheel. The balance wheel keeps the pace of the movement, oscillating back and forth. It's comprised of the balance rim and balance spring, which is the beating heart of every mechanical caliber. Without the balance spring, the balance wheel along with the entire movement would stop moving after a short time. Thus, the escapement and oscillation systems form the base of every mechanical watch.

The motion train is located under the dial. Generally, this reduces the center wheel's number of revolutions by one-twelfth. The center wheel makes one rotation on its own axis every 60 minutes. Thus, the hour hand makes one full rotation every 12 hours.

Several different manufacturers are still producing manual winding mechanical calibers, such as Junghans, Nomos, Patek Philippe, and Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Technical Details of Manual Winding Watches

  • Movement design allows for flat cases
  • Manual winding
  • Runs without a battery for up to 8 days

Automatic Mechanical Watches

The invention of automatic winding revolutionized the mechanical watch, as automatic watches wind themselves just by being worn. The regular morning ritual of winding your wristwatch ceased to exist. In order for the watch to automatically wind, a rotor is used. Thanks to the constant force of gravity, it's always being pulled towards the center of the Earth. When you move your arm up and down, the rotor rotates around in the case and winds the mainspring.

Winding occurs uni- or bidirectionally, depending on the movement. A bidirectional winding system has the advantage that the movement's winding rotor is wound to the right and to the left. A unidirectional winding system powers the movement by winding it in one direction. Therefore, it takes longer to fully wind the watch. The Pellaton winding system is an especially efficient winding system. It winds the movement bidirectionally, using small movements of the oscillating mass. The inventor of the Pellaton winding system was Albert Pellaton, the technical director at the International Watch Company from 1944 to 1966.

Both winding systems have a so-called reduction gear. This converts the fast movements of the rotor into slower ones with a higher torque. The end of the mainspring is not directly connected to the barrel. Rather, the end is connected to the so-called slipping spring so that the mainspring doesn't break off. When the movement is fully wound, the slipping spring slides along the inner wall of the barrel.

Mechanical watches with an automatic caliber have many advantages to offer. For one, they're convenient, as they don't need to be wound by hand. They also don't require batteries to run, making them generally more environmentally friendly than quartz watches. Generally, automatic movements are also more precise than manual movements, as the oscillating mass provides constant tension to the mainspring. That involves constant torque, which positively affects the amplitude. Amplitude is a term referring to the degree of rotation the balance wheel moves per oscillation.

Amongst watchmakers, the in-house, automatic Rolex calibers are considered some of the best, most robust, and most precise movements in existence.

Technical Details of Automatic Watches

  • Wind automatically while being worn
  • Often more precise than manual winding watches
  • Environmentally friendly: no battery

Mechanical Watches with Special Complications

Most mechanical watches limit themselves to displaying the time and the date. Automatic winding is one of the most common complications utilized in watches. A complication is a function of a mechanical movement that goes beyond displaying the hours, minutes, and seconds. Watchmakers also differentiate between small and large complications. Small complications are, for example, date or day of the week displays or power reserve indicators. A diving watch's rotatable bezel, moon phase display, or a GMT watch's second time zone are also small complications. Complications like minute repetition, perpetual calendars, and large and small striking works are considered large complications . A stopwatch function is also a large complication. In comparison to a perpetual calendar, a stopwatch function is similarly intricate, but more common and much less expensive.

The Swiss manufacturer Patek Philippe is known for their especially complicated watches. Their 1932 Graves Supercomplication pocket watch, as well as the Calibre 89 from 1989, are considered some of their most intricate pieces. The Graves Supercomplication, a special project for the New York banker Henry Graves, Jr., has an impressive 24 complications. Among these complications are a perpetual calendar, double chronograph to time intervening periods, and different astronomical displays. In 1989, the Calibre 89 replaced the Graves Supercomplication as the most complicated pocket watch in the world. The Calibre 89 has 33 different functions and remains one of the most complicated pocket watches in the world to date. It has a full perpetual calendar, a split-seconds chronograph, an indicator for the moon's age and phases, astronomical functions, a minute repeater, an alarm, and both a grande and petite sonnerie.

One of the most complicated wristwatches in the world is the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime with 20 complications. The timepiece has multiple acoustic complications, such as a minute repeater, petite sonnerie, grand sonnerie , an alarm with time strike, and a perpetual date repeater. The watch can also function as an alarm. It can even chime the time. Furthermore, it displays a second time zone, a perpetual calendar, power reserve indicators for the going train and strikework, a day and night display, and a moon phase display. The caliber 300 GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM, which powers the Grandmaster Chime, is comprised of 1,366 pieces. The watch's red gold case is very finely chiseled, and in order to display all of the complications, the watch has a dial on the front and back side. Patek Philippe calls this "double face." There are only seven Grandmaster Chime watches in the world, one of which is located in the Patek Philippe Museum. This extravagant watch costs around 6.4 million euros.