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Franck Muller Vanguard
X BWD Popeye
NZ$39,220
+ NZ$249 for shipping
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Vacheron Constantin Overseas
Blue Dial 41mm Overseas
NZ$119,330
+ NZ$249 for shipping
Promoted
A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret
Diamonds Big date Box & Pap
NZ$50,287
Free shipping
Popular
Stuhrling
Original CAL.ST-91011 Dual Time Sun&Moon Automatic
NZ$170
Excl. shipping
Private Seller
Promoted
Rolex Sky-Dweller
Ref. 326235 Everose Gold Chocolate Oysterflex Unworn Watch Full Set 2022
NZ$68,254
+ NZ$537 for shipping
Rolex Precision
8823
NZ$3,795
Free shipping
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Patek Philippe Calatrava
96
NZ$10,598
Excl. shipping
Private Seller
Promoted
Rolex Submariner Date
Oyster Perpetual 41mm 18k White Gold Black Dial Ceramic Blue Bezel 126619LB
NZ$60,082
+ NZ$165 for shipping
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Audemars Piguet Tradition
25589BA Day-Date Moonphase
NZ$10,354
Excl. shipping
Private Seller
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Zenith Elite 6150
18k
NZ$14,014
Free shipping
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Bulgari Diagono
Scuba Professional Flyback
NZ$8,845
Excl. shipping
Private Seller
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Omega Seamaster
NZ$2,253
Excl. shipping
Private Seller
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Cartier Tank Louis Cartier
18 Karat Lady Vintage Handaufzug aus den 70 er Jahren Rarität 19 x 25 mm
NZ$10,778
+ NZ$359 for shipping
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Rolex
3612
NZ$59,361
Excl. shipping
Private Seller
Promoted
Rolex Yacht-Master 42
226659
NZ$47,916
+ NZ$319 for shipping
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Rolex Daytona
Meteorite
NZ$159,120
+ NZ$400 for shipping
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Patek Philippe Calatrava
3520D
NZ$10,191
Excl. shipping
Private Seller
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Cartier Tank Louis Cartier
17002 Tank Louis Cartier XL Jumbo
NZ$22,403
Excl. shipping
Private Seller
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Rolex Cellini
4127
NZ$6,202
Excl. shipping
Private Seller
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Universal Genève
Cal 330
NZ$684
Excl. shipping
Private Seller
Promoted
Rolex Yacht-Master 42
White Gold Yacht-Master 42 Watch - Black Dial - Oysterflex Strap Reference 226659
NZ$51,737
+ NZ$165 for shipping
Rolex Day-Date 36
Green ombre Diamond Dial
NZ$91,500
Free shipping
Rolex Datejust 36
1984 Vintage Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 36 yellow gold ref. 16018
NZ$13,352
Excl. shipping
Private Seller
Promoted
Arnold & Son HM Perpetual Moon
Double Hemisphere Perpetual Moon
NZ$26,953
+ NZ$217 for shipping
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Rolex Yacht-Master 42
full set 2020 with new card
NZ$44,444
+ NZ$235 for shipping
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Rolex Day-Date 40
228235
NZ$83,543
+ NZ$449 for shipping
Universal Genève
Golden Shadow
NZ$2,337
Excl. shipping
Private Seller
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Omega Seamaster DeVille
165.020
NZ$1,669
Excl. shipping
Private Seller
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Rolex Day-Date 36
36mm Factory Diamond Dial
NZ$23,364
+ NZ$165 for shipping
Promoted
Rolex Yacht-Master 42
White Gold Yacht-Master 42 Watch - Black Dial - Oysterflex Strap Reference 226659
NZ$56,744
+ NZ$165 for shipping

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Rolex Day-Date 40
Olive Green Dial Rose gold NEW 2023
NZ$86,058
+ NZ$719 for shipping
Popular
Patek Philippe Calatrava
REF. 5120G-001
NZ$27,973
+ NZ$629 for shipping
Promoted
Rolex Daytona
116509
NZ$68,126
+ NZ$400 for shipping
Popular
Rolex Yacht-Master 42
Weißgold - 2022 - LC EU - Neu - Fullset
NZ$50,755
+ NZ$99 for shipping
Popular
Patek Philippe Calatrava
3520D
NZ$10,514
Excl. shipping
Private Seller
Omega De Ville
111.0144
NZ$851
Excl. shipping
Private Seller
Popular
A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk
140.029
NZ$107,797
+ NZ$449 for shipping
Rolex Day-Date 36
36mm Factory Diamond Dial
NZ$23,364
+ NZ$165 for shipping
Popular
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Lady Date
Tiffany
NZ$9,880
+ NZ$447 for shipping
Popular
Cartier Santos Dumont
Extra Large Roségold - Neu 04/23 Full Set
NZ$24,254
+ NZ$358 for shipping
Popular
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph
41 Chronograph Rose Gold ORIGINAL ICED OUT Diamonds 50th Anniversary 26242OR
NZ$530,001
+ NZ$52 for shipping
Promoted
Patek Philippe Calatrava
3470
NZ$10,848
Excl. shipping
Private Seller
BURAN Russian chronograph
NZ$1,559
Excl. shipping
Private Seller
Popular
Rolex Yacht-Master 40
116655
NZ$44,736
+ NZ$142 for shipping
Popular
Hublot Big Bang Ferrari
Unico Magic Gold 45mm
NZ$69,170
Free shipping
Popular
Rolex Daytona
Rainbow
Price on request
+ NZ$449 for shipping
Popular
Rolex Yacht-Master 42
Ref.226659 | Whitegold/Oysterflex 2019
NZ$47,521
+ NZ$629 for shipping
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Rolex Day-Date 36
FIRST OWNER 1. Hand - FULL SET - LC100 - Rolex Day-Date 36 Factory Diamond Dial lemon
NZ$34,118
+ NZ$178 for shipping
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Rolex Day-Date 36
TOP Day-Date 36 18K Gelb Gold Präsident Full Set Green Grün
NZ$53,809
+ NZ$537 for shipping
Rolex Yacht-Master 42
226659
NZ$50,365
+ NZ$178 for shipping
Promoted
IWC
1961 Vintage Mens Watch Cal. 853 Automatic - 18K Gold Plated
NZ$3,313
Excl. shipping
Private Seller
Rolex Day-Date 36
1803
NZ$15,271
Free shipping
Popular
A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1
101.032
NZ$35,932
+ NZ$629 for shipping
Popular
Rolex Daytona
Meteorite Dial New 2022
NZ$194,035
+ NZ$341 for shipping
Popular
Patek Philippe World Time
5130G-001
NZ$58,390
+ NZ$449 for shipping
Promoted
Audemars Piguet Quantieme Perpetual Calendar
36 mm Quantieme Perpetual Calendar Herrenuhr im Top Zustand Kaliber 2120
NZ$31,259
+ NZ$359 for shipping
Rolex Day-Date 36
18238
NZ$38,202
+ NZ$186 for shipping
Popular
Rolex GMT-Master II
RootBeer NEW 2022 Full Rose Gold
NZ$66,295
+ NZ$719 for shipping
Promoted
Rolex Daytona
40 White Gold Steel Grey Index Dial Black Sub-Dials Oysterflex (116519ln)
NZ$74,268
+ NZ$165 for shipping
Citizen
1685 18k solid gold
NZ$1,527
Excl. shipping
Private Seller
Popular
Hublot Classic Fusion
ORIGINAL YELLOW GOLD 38mm / Full Set / almost unworn / 2023
NZ$32,070
+ NZ$449 for shipping
Rolex Yacht-Master 42
226659 - 2023
NZ$50,684
+ NZ$213 for shipping
Popular
Rolex Day-Date 36
ROSE GOLD FULL SET
NZ$23,364
+ NZ$215 for shipping

Gold Watches: Elegant and Valuable

A gold watch is the epitome of luxury. For thousands of years, this precious metal has been a symbol of permanence and wealth. Most gold watches are elegant dress watches, though some have a sportier design.


Features

  • 18-karat or 750 gold indicates it's 75% gold
  • 14-karat gold or 585 gold is less common
  • Many gold-electroplated vintage watches
  • Watches with modern PVD coating are in the lower price range
  • Some manufacturers offer their own alloys such as Everose or Sedna gold

Gold Cases: The Mixture Makes the Difference

When gold comes to mind, people most often think of yellow gold. However, many types of gold are used in the watch industry, such as white, pink, and red gold . There are also in-house alloys made by manufacturers like Omega's Sedna gold and Rolex's Everose, both red gold alloys. A unique alloy is Hublot's Magic Gold, which combines yellow gold and ceramic, making it extremely scratch resistant.

Technically, a timepiece can only be considered a gold watch if the case is made of solid gold . However, you can count watches in a lower price range as well, as their cases are made of stainless steel which is then coated in gold.

A gold watch is almost always produced from an metal alloy. Pure gold, which you find in the form of coins or bars available for purchase, is used to plate the surfaces of cases made of a different material. As it's relatively soft, some manufacturers mix it with other metals in-house in order to make it harder and more scratch resistant or to give it another hue.

A value of one karat means that the material is composed of 1/24th gold. Pure gold is thus 24 karat. Watch cases with the highest percentage of gold are 18-karat cases , a value equal to 750 gold. The 750 represents the percentage of pure gold out of 1,000. In a 750 alloy, 75% of the material is pure gold, while the rest consists of other metals. Silver and copper are mixed together with yellow gold. The amount varies, however, in order to slightly change the tone of the yellow gold.

Red and pink gold have a much larger percentage of copper than silver, which gives the gold its reddish-pinkish hue. White gold, on the other hand, has more silver than copper. Particularly valuable 18-karat white gold watches are made with an alloy containing platinum or palladium.

Cases made of 14-karat gold (585 gold) can also be found, although most manufacturers offer 18-karat gold watches today. This applies to watches in both mid and upper price ranges, such as those from Longines, Maurice Lacroix, and Tissot.

Some manufacturers use gold-colored coatings that resemble gold, but are actually something else entirely. The most common of these methods uses a PVD (physical vapor deposition) coating. During this process, the coating is applied via vacuum deposition. PVD coatings can also be made of gold and are regarded as very scratch resistant.

An alternative is electroplating gold on stainless steel cases. The gold layer is very thin; 20 microns is the norm. One micron is 1/1,000th of a millimeter. The gold plating is either 18 or 24-karat gold and prone to scratches, but can be redone if necessary. The PVD method has grown in popularity in recent years, so you will most frequently encounter electroplated watches in the vintage market.


Buying Advice

If you want to buy a gold watch, then you should pay attention to the karats. An 18-karat gold watch is an 18-karat gold watch, regardless of the manufacturer.

The price difference between gold and stainless steel versions of the same watch can be quite considerable. A stainless steel Rolex Submariner with a date display costs about 7,000 euros new, while a yellow gold version in the same condition costs 21,000 euros.

The price and value of an 18-karat gold watch also depends on the price of gold. The market price varies, but has usually been over $1,000 for one troy ounce (31 grams) of gold over the last few years. In the summer of 2011, it shot up to around $1,900. It is unlikely that the price will drop below $1,000. The price of gold watches has gone up simply due to their material worth. In the 1990s, the price was still oscillating between $300 and $400. Since gold also functions as a replacement currency in crisis situations, gold watches are a relatively secure investment. In the worst case, the watch retains value based on the weight of its gold. For this to be the case, however, one should imagine that times are tough and the gold price is thus very high.

Normally, the collector's value and the manufacturer's reputation play a deciding role in determining the price of a timepiece. Gold watches from an independent manufacturer powered by in-house calibers cost the most. Rolex's Submariner isn't the only expensive gold watch they offer. Other series have gold models, such as the Daytona or the Day-Date. The Day-Date is offered with a white gold, yellow gold, or Everose alloy, and the cases are available in many different sizes.

The story is similar with Omega. Their diving watch Seamaster is available in 18-karat gold, and the company offers a large selection of gold watches in their De Ville collection.

Patek Philippe is the ultimate manufacturer of gold watches. No other renowned Swiss manufacturer relies so much on the precious metal like the Genevan family business. The Calatrava is Patek Philippe's most classic series.

Patek Philippe is one of the few manufacturers who doesn't only make the case out of gold, but important parts of the movement as well. A good example is the rotor of an automatic movement, which is often decorated with engravings. Rolex also uses white gold indices - even on the models with a stainless steel case. Not just for aesthetic reasons, either: Gold doesn't tarnish.


Swiss Dominance

According to tradition, the first solid gold wristwatch was made by Girad-Perregaux and was delivered to the German Emperor William I in 1879. Now, around 500,000 gold watches are produced each year, with 90% of them being made in Switzerland. Rolex plays a prominent role in this, as they alone produce 200,000 of these gold watches. In one year, Rolex produces around 800,000 watches, making gold watches a quarter of their total production. The company produces cases in their own foundry. Gold plays an even more important role for the luxury manufacturer Patek Philippe, however. Gold watches dominate Patek's portfolio; there are only a few stainless steel models available. Usually, it's the other way around. Gold remains an expensive exception for most companies. A popular compromise is to create a bicolor watch, where parts of the case and bracelet are made of stainless steel and others of gold. Rolex calls this Rolesor.