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Harry Winston Midnight MIDAHM42RR001 New Rose gold 42mm Automatic
TOP
Harry Winston Midnight
NZ$ 28,361
Professional dealer
65
AE
Carl F. Bucherer Manero 00.10920.03.53.99 New Rose gold 43.1mm Automatic
TOP
Carl F. Bucherer Carl F. - Manero Tourbillon - 00.10920.03.53...
NZ$ 87,884
Professional dealer
 
RU
Patek Philippe Calatrava 7200/50G-010 Very good White gold 34mm
TOP
Patek Philippe Calatrava New York 2017 Edition 7200/50g-010...
NZ$ 48,635
Professional dealer
306
US
Rolex Daytona 116519 Very good White gold Automatic
TOP
Rolex DAYTONA GOLD 116519 Mother pearl NEW 99%
NZ$ 44,657
Free shipping
Professional dealer
14
ES
Breguet Classique Complications 5317BR/12/9V6 New Rose gold 39mm Automatic
TOP
Breguet Classique Tourbillon, rose gold, 5-days power-reserve...
NZ$ 125,732
Professional dealer
55
CH
Louis Moinet LM-64.50.DR New Rose gold 45mm Automatic
TOP
Louis Moinet Derrick Blue Unique Watch 1 pcs Limited edition...
NZ$ 51,826
Free shipping
Professional dealer
374
EE
Rolex Daytona 116509 Fair White gold 40mm Automatic New Zealand, Auckland
Rolex Daytona
NZ$ 49,168
Professional dealer
21
NZ
Baume & Mercier William Baume MOA08841 Unworn Rose gold 43mm Manual winding
TOP
Baume & Mercier William Baume Flying Tourbillon Limited...
NZ$ 68,284
Professional dealer
192
DE
Rolex Datejust 16019 Very good White gold 36mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Datejust 16019 rare 18K Gold Weissgold White Herrenuhr...
NZ$ 103,635
Professional dealer
634
DE
Rolex Day-Date 36 18238 Fair Yellow gold 36mm Automatic New Zealand, Wellington
Rolex Day-Date 36 18ct Yellow Gold President Diamond Face...
NZ$ 25,000
Private Seller
NZ
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony 81180 Very good White gold 40mm Manual winding
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony 18K Weissgold Handaufzug...
NZ$ 17,016

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Baume & Mercier Clifton M0A10059 New Rose gold 38.8mm Automatic
TOP
Baume & Mercier Clifton Rose Gold
NZ$ 6,824
Free shipping
Professional dealer
584
LV
Breguet Tradition 7037BA/11/9V6 New Yellow gold 39mm Automatic
TOP
Breguet Tradition, yellow gold
NZ$ 36,565
Professional dealer
55
CH
Patek Philippe World Time Chronograph 5930G-001 Very good White gold 39.5mm Automatic
TOP
Patek Philippe Complications World Time Chronograph 5930G-001
NZ$ 85,225
Free shipping
Professional dealer
1334
US
Breguet Classique 8068BB/52/964 DD00 Good White gold 30mm Automatic New Zealand, Auckland
Breguet Classique
NZ$ 17,682
Professional dealer
NZ
Omega De Ville Trésor OT 2894 Very good Yellow gold 30mm Manual winding
TOP
Omega Tresor Vintage Omega 18k Matt da 1960 #cal 267 pre...
NZ$ 7,254
Free shipping
Professional dealer
865
NL
Rolex Lady-Datejust 179179 New White gold 26mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Lady-Datejust President Mother or Pearl 179179 White Gold
NZ$ 19,881
Professional dealer
804
US
Audemars Piguet Edward Piguet 25925OR.OO.D001CR.01 Very good Rose gold 29mm Automatic
TOP
Audemars Piguet Edward Piguet
NZ$ 13,505
Professional dealer
13
US
Vacheron Constantin Historiques 49003 Very good Yellow gold 38mm Automatic
Vacheron Constantin Historiques Chronograph 18K Gold Automatik...
NZ$ 13,561

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Hublot Big Bang 41 mm 341.PE.230.RW.174 Very good Rose gold 41mm Automatic
TOP
Hublot Big Bang Porto Cervo Diamonds Pave 18K Rose Gold B&P
NZ$ 41,288
Free shipping
Professional dealer
464
PL
Jaquet-Droz J017533270 New Rose gold 43mm Automatic
TOP
Jaquet-Droz Grande Heure Minute Quantieme Meteorite Dial...
NZ$ 30,888
Free shipping
Professional dealer
584
LV
Jaquet-Droz J016933210 New Rose gold 43mm Automatic
TOP
Jaquet-Droz Grand Date, rose gold, 65 hours power-reserve,...
NZ$ 22,131
Professional dealer
55
CH
Ulysse Nardin Freak Cruiser 2050-131/03 Very good White gold 45mm Manual winding
TOP
Ulysse Nardin Freak Cruiser 2050-131/03
NZ$ 68,166
Free shipping
Professional dealer
1334
US
Chopard L.U.C 161934-5001 New Rose gold 40mm Automatic
TOP
Chopard L.U.C. Lunar Twin
NZ$ 22,292
Professional dealer
113
CH
Patek Philippe Calatrava 3442 Good Yellow gold 28mm Manual winding
TOP
Patek Philippe Yellow Gold Calatrava Extra Heavy 18K PP SHIELD...
NZ$ 12,948
Free shipping
Professional dealer
865
NL
Corum Admiral's Cup (submodel) 694550371CG12 New Rose gold 44mm Automatic
TOP
Corum Admiral´s Cup Regatta 18k Rose Gold Edición Limitada 600...
NZ$ 25,740
Professional dealer
96
ES
Van Cleef & Arpels Van cleef Very good Yellow gold 34mm Manual winding
TOP
Van Cleef & Arpels Skeleton limited edition very rare
NZ$ 38,714
Professional dealer
125
UK
Patek Philippe Calatrava 4819 Very good Yellow gold 25mm Quartz
Patek Philippe Calatrava 18K (0,750) Gelbgold Damenuhr Gold...
NZ$ 8,206

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Jaeger-LeCoultre Ideale 460.1.08 Very good Yellow gold 17mm Quartz
TOP
Jaeger-LeCoultre Ideale Box & Papers
NZ$ 17,103
Free shipping
Professional dealer
464
PL
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric PFC423-1602401-HA1441 Unworn Red gold 41mm Automatic
TOP
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chonometre 18k Red Gold 41mm Men's...
NZ$ 14,215
Professional dealer
858
US
Breguet Classique 5140BA/12/9W6 New Yellow gold 40mm Automatic
TOP
Breguet Classique, yellow gold, extra-thin automatic movement
NZ$ 20,528
Professional dealer
55
CH
H.Moser & Cie. Henry Double Hairspring 5324-0211 Very good White gold 38.2mm Manual winding
TOP
H.Moser & Cie. & Cie Swiss Alp Limited Edition 5324-0211
NZ$ 38,312
Free shipping
Professional dealer
1334
US
Girard Perregaux Vintage 1945 90275-52-111-BA6A Unworn Rose gold 36mm Automatic
TOP
Girard Perregaux Vintage 1945 XXL Perpetual Calendar Equation...
NZ$ 40,895
Professional dealer
14
CH
Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse 3566 Very good Yellow gold 28mm Manual winding
TOP
Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse 18k Blue Dial Manual Wind -...
NZ$ 10,191
Free shipping
Professional dealer
865
NL
Zenith 133.8 Very good Yellow gold 35mm Automatic
TOP
Zenith 18 Carat Solid Gold Guilloche Dial 133.8
NZ$ 4,319
Free shipping
Professional dealer
32
NL
Omega Constellation BA 392.9221 Very good Yellow gold 32mm Quartz
TOP
Omega Constellation, DoubleSigned: Qatar, Integrated Bracelet
NZ$ 13,343
Professional dealer
59
CH
Omega Speedmaster 175.0034 Very good Yellow gold 38.5mm Automatic
Omega Speedmaster Chronograph 18K Gold Automatik Herrenuhr...
NZ$ 8,551

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Universal Time Q8102520 Unworn Rose gold 41.6mm Automatic
Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Universal Time
NZ$ 28,504
Professional dealer
32
BE
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PFC222-1602400-HA1431 Unworn Rose gold 39mm Automatic
TOP
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Qualité Fleurier 39mm 18k Rose Gold...
NZ$ 12,082
Professional dealer
858
US
Jaquet-Droz Astrale J015134222 New White gold 43mm Automatic
TOP
Jaquet-Droz "The Times Zones", unique piece - no. 1/1, 68...
NZ$ 35,603
Professional dealer
55
CH
Roger Dubuis Sympathie S37.57070 Very good White gold 37mm Automatic
TOP
Roger Dubuis Sympathie Bi-Retrograde Perpetual Calendar S37.57070
NZ$ 59,636
Free shipping
Professional dealer
1334
US
Rolex Submariner Date 116618LB New Yellow gold 40mm Automatic
Rolex Submariner Date Gold 116618LB NEW 2019 Blue Dial
NZ$ 58,286
Professional dealer
48
US
Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse 4226 Very good Yellow gold 27.8mm Manual winding
TOP
Patek Philippe Vintage Ellipse BRICK GUN Blue 18 K Yellow Gold...
NZ$ 14,164
Free shipping
Professional dealer
865
NL
Rolex Daytona 16528 Good Yellow gold 40mm Automatic
Rolex Daytona Zenith Yellow Gold - White Dial - U Serial
NZ$ 49,235
Free shipping
Professional dealer
92
AD
Vacheron Constantin 4466 Very good Yellow gold 35mm Automatic
TOP
Vacheron Constantin Turler Doublesigned 4466: 1953 Bumper...
NZ$ 14,177
Professional dealer
59
CH
Zenith El Primero Chronograph 30.0220.400 Very good Yellow gold 39mm Automatic
Zenith El Primero Chronograph 18K Gold Automatik Herrenuhr...
NZ$ 13,043

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Zenith Captain Chronograph 18.2111.400/01.C498 Very good Rose gold 42mm Automatic
Zenith Captain El Primero Chronograph Limited Edition Rose Gold
NZ$ 15,077
Professional dealer
19
UK
Montblanc Heritage Spirit 110714 New Rose gold 39mm Automatic
Montblanc Heritage Spirit Perpetual Calendar
NZ$ 22,199
Professional dealer
32
BE
Breguet Héritage 5400BB/12/9V6 New White gold 42mm Automatic
TOP
Breguet Héritage Chronograph, white gold,
NZ$ 44,744
Professional dealer
55
CH
Zenith Academy 18.2210.4810/01.C713 Very good Rose gold 45mm Manual winding
TOP
Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Limited Edition 18.2210.481...
NZ$ 63,901
Free shipping
Professional dealer
1334
US
Rolex GMT-Master II 126715CHNR New Rose gold 40mm Automatic
Rolex GMT-Master II “ROOTBEER” UNWORN 2019 126715CHNR
NZ$ 63,261
Professional dealer
48
US
Hermès Heure H hh1.285 Very good Yellow gold 23mm Quartz
TOP
Hermès Ladies H Hour 18k Solid Yellow Gold 23 x 30 mm - hh1.285
NZ$ 4,663
Free shipping
Professional dealer
865
NL
IWC Portuguese Perpetual Calendar IW502119 Good Rose gold 44mm Automatic
IWC Portuguese Perpetual Calendar - Rose Gold
NZ$ 26,950
Free shipping
Professional dealer
92
AD
Chopard Happy Diamonds Very good White gold 32mm Quartz
TOP
Chopard White Gold Ladies Happy Diamonds with Integrated Bracelet
NZ$ 10,007
Professional dealer
59
CH
Rolex Cellini Prince 5440 Very good Yellow gold 35mm Manual winding
Rolex Cellini Prince 18K (0,750) Gelbgold Handaufzug Herrenuhr...
NZ$ 16,152

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Omega Constellation Omega Good Rose gold 34mm Automatic
Omega Vintage Constellation 18K Rose Gold Pie Pan Dial
NZ$ 13,932
Professional dealer
11
SG
Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Q3432490 New Rose gold 36mm Automatic
Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Night & Day
NZ$ 46,384
Professional dealer
32
BE
Breguet Marine 8828BR/5D/RM1 DD00 New Rose gold 34.6mm Automatic
TOP
Breguet Marine chronograph, sapphire crown, 170 diamonds on...
NZ$ 66,875
Professional dealer
55
CH
Cartier Tank Divan WA301236 Very good White gold 32mm Quartz
TOP
Cartier Tank Divan WA301236
NZ$ 10,449
Free shipping
Professional dealer
1334
US
Rolex Daytona 116505 New Rose gold 40mm Automatic
Rolex Daytona Rose Gold Cosmograph 2019 NEW 116505
NZ$ 73,923
Professional dealer
48
US
Zenith Captain Central Second 18.2021.670 Very good Rose gold 40mm Automatic
TOP
Zenith Special Edition - Elite Captain Central Seconds 18K...
NZ$ 7,772
Free shipping
Professional dealer
865
NL
Rolex Lady-Datejust 179179 New White gold 26mm Automatic
Rolex Lady-Datejust President White Gold
NZ$ 23,494
Free shipping
Professional dealer
92
AD
Omega Constellation Quartz BA396.0806 Very good Yellow gold 33mm Quartz
TOP
Omega Constellation Gold MegaQuartz cal1510 2.4MHz, Stardust...
NZ$ 14,177
Professional dealer
59
CH

Gold Watches: Elegant and Valuable

A gold watch is the epitome of luxury. For thousands of years, this precious metal has been a symbol of permanence and wealth. Most gold watches are elegant dress watches, though some have a sportier design.


Features

  • 18-karat or 750 gold indicates it's 75% gold
  • 14-karat gold or 585 gold is less common
  • Many gold-electroplated vintage watches
  • Watches with modern PVD coating are in the lower price range
  • Some manufacturers offer their own alloys such as Everose or Sedna gold

Gold Cases: The Mixture Makes the Difference

When gold comes to mind, people most often think of yellow gold. However, many types of gold are used in the watch industry, such as white, pink, and red gold . There are also in-house alloys made by manufacturers like Omega's Sedna gold and Rolex's Everose, both red gold alloys. A unique alloy is Hublot's Magic Gold, which combines yellow gold and ceramic, making it extremely scratch resistant.

Technically, a timepiece can only be considered a gold watch if the case is made of solid gold . However, you can count watches in a lower price range as well, as their cases are made of stainless steel which is then coated in gold.

A gold watch is almost always produced from an metal alloy. Pure gold, which you find in the form of coins or bars available for purchase, is used to plate the surfaces of cases made of a different material. As it's relatively soft, some manufacturers mix it with other metals in-house in order to make it harder and more scratch resistant or to give it another hue.

A value of one karat means that the material is composed of 1/24th gold. Pure gold is thus 24 karat. Watch cases with the highest percentage of gold are 18-karat cases , a value equal to 750 gold. The 750 represents the percentage of pure gold out of 1,000. In a 750 alloy, 75% of the material is pure gold, while the rest consists of other metals. Silver and copper are mixed together with yellow gold. The amount varies, however, in order to slightly change the tone of the yellow gold.

Red and pink gold have a much larger percentage of copper than silver, which gives the gold its reddish-pinkish hue. White gold, on the other hand, has more silver than copper. Particularly valuable 18-karat white gold watches are made with an alloy containing platinum or palladium.

Cases made of 14-karat gold (585 gold) can also be found, although most manufacturers offer 18-karat gold watches today. This applies to watches in both mid and upper price ranges, such as those from Longines, Maurice Lacroix, and Tissot.

Some manufacturers use gold-colored coatings that resemble gold, but are actually something else entirely. The most common of these methods uses a PVD (physical vapor deposition) coating. During this process, the coating is applied via vacuum deposition. PVD coatings can also be made of gold and are regarded as very scratch resistant.

An alternative is electroplating gold on stainless steel cases. The gold layer is very thin; 20 microns is the norm. One micron is 1/1,000th of a millimeter. The gold plating is either 18 or 24-karat gold and prone to scratches, but can be redone if necessary. The PVD method has grown in popularity in recent years, so you will most frequently encounter electroplated watches in the vintage market.


Buying Advice

If you want to buy a gold watch, then you should pay attention to the karats. An 18-karat gold watch is an 18-karat gold watch, regardless of the manufacturer.

The price difference between gold and stainless steel versions of the same watch can be quite considerable. A stainless steel Rolex Submariner with a date display costs about 7,000 euros new, while a yellow gold version in the same condition costs 21,000 euros.

The price and value of an 18-karat gold watch also depends on the price of gold. The market price varies, but has usually been over $1,000 for one troy ounce (31 grams) of gold over the last few years. In the summer of 2011, it shot up to around $1,900. It is unlikely that the price will drop below $1,000. The price of gold watches has gone up simply due to their material worth. In the 1990s, the price was still oscillating between $300 and $400. Since gold also functions as a replacement currency in crisis situations, gold watches are a relatively secure investment. In the worst case, the watch retains value based on the weight of its gold. For this to be the case, however, one should imagine that times are tough and the gold price is thus very high.

Normally, the collector's value and the manufacturer's reputation play a deciding role in determining the price of a timepiece. Gold watches from an independent manufacturer powered by in-house calibers cost the most. Rolex's Submariner isn't the only expensive gold watch they offer. Other series have gold models, such as the Daytona or the Day-Date. The Day-Date is offered with a white gold, yellow gold, or Everose alloy, and the cases are available in many different sizes.

The story is similar with Omega. Their diving watch Seamaster is available in 18-karat gold, and the company offers a large selection of gold watches in their De Ville collection.

Patek Philippe is the ultimate manufacturer of gold watches. No other renowned Swiss manufacturer relies so much on the precious metal like the Genevan family business. The Calatrava is Patek Philippe's most classic series.

Patek Philippe is one of the few manufacturers who doesn't only make the case out of gold, but important parts of the movement as well. A good example is the rotor of an automatic movement, which is often decorated with engravings. Rolex also uses white gold indices - even on the models with a stainless steel case. Not just for aesthetic reasons, either: Gold doesn't tarnish.


Swiss Dominance

According to tradition, the first solid gold wristwatch was made by Girad-Perregaux and was delivered to the German Emperor William I in 1879. Now, around 500,000 gold watches are produced each year, with 90% of them being made in Switzerland. Rolex plays a prominent role in this, as they alone produce 200,000 of these gold watches. In one year, Rolex produces around 800,000 watches, making gold watches a quarter of their total production. The company produces cases in their own foundry. Gold plays an even more important role for the luxury manufacturer Patek Philippe, however. Gold watches dominate Patek's portfolio; there are only a few stainless steel models available. Usually, it's the other way around. Gold remains an expensive exception for most companies. A popular compromise is to create a bicolor watch, where parts of the case and bracelet are made of stainless steel and others of gold. Rolex calls this Rolesor.


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