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Vacheron Constantin Very Rare 1970s  Lozenge Pave Diamond Dial...
TOP
Vacheron Constantin Very Rare 1970s Lozenge Pave Diamond Dial...
NZ$ 94,801
Free shipping
Seller
Ye Olde Timekeepers, Inc.
9
US
Audemars Piguet Pocket Watch Necklace 35773BA
TOP
Audemars Piguet Pocket Watch Necklace 35773BA
NZ$ 38,479
Free shipping
Seller
Watches & Jewellery of Bond Street Ltd
144
UK
Breguet Marine 18k Yellow Gold  Automatic 26mm Ladies Diamond...
TOP
Breguet Marine 18k Yellow Gold Automatic 26mm Ladies Diamond...
NZ$ 19,723
Seller
WT Time Pieces
33
UK
Vacheron Constantin 1940s  WRISTCONCEALED  DIAL  DIAMOND  18Kt...
TOP
Vacheron Constantin 1940s WRISTCONCEALED DIAL DIAMOND 18Kt...
NZ$ 23,174
Free shipping
Seller
Ye Olde Timekeepers, Inc.
9
US
Chopard VINTAGE 70S LARGE HAPPY DIAMOND SAUDI KING REF. 2121
TOP
Chopard VINTAGE 70S LARGE HAPPY DIAMOND SAUDI KING REF. 2121
NZ$ 10,955
Free shipping
Seller
Ye Olde Timekeepers, Inc.
9
US
Corum Admiral´s Cup Regatta 18k Rose Gold
TOP
Corum Admiral´s Cup Regatta 18k Rose Gold
NZ$ 21,955
Seller
CANTELI JOYEROS SL
 
ES
Glashütte Original PanomaticLunar White Gold model # 900231140...
TOP
Glashütte Original PanomaticLunar White Gold model # 900231140...
NZ$ 15,442
Seller
AbsolutelyROLEX!
 
CA
Linde Werdelin SpidoLite Gold
Straight from the manufacturer
Linde Werdelin SpidoLite Gold
NZ$ 43,327
BrandBoutique Member
Linde Werdelin LTD
Girard Perregaux Heritage Place Girardet
TOP
Girard Perregaux Heritage Place Girardet
NZ$ 33,711
Seller
Juwelier Colman
 
BE
Ateliers deMonaco Tourbillon Oculus 1298
Straight from the manufacturer
Ateliers deMonaco Tourbillon Oculus 1298
NZ$ 120,839
BrandBoutique Member
Les Ateliers deMonaco SARL
Chopard Happy Spirit Diamond Mother of Pearl-XXL : 38-40 mm
TOP
Chopard Happy Spirit Diamond Mother of Pearl-XXL : 38-40 mm
NZ$ 95,081
Seller
K&K Juwelier GmbH
65
DE
Patek Philippe Nautilus
TOP
Patek Philippe Nautilus
NZ$ 15,325
Seller
Fernando Monge SA
98
ES
Rolex Yacht-Master II Whitegold 116689
TOP
Rolex Yacht-Master II Whitegold 116689
NZ$ 38,810
Seller
Filipucci Juweliers
378
NL
Cartier 1940s CARTIER TRIPLE CALENDAR EUROPEAN WATCH COMPANY...
TOP
Cartier 1940s CARTIER TRIPLE CALENDAR EUROPEAN WATCH COMPANY...
NZ$ 39,325
Free shipping
Seller
Ye Olde Timekeepers, Inc.
9
US
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1R-001
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1R-001
NZ$ 86,331
Seller
UK Time Legend
 
UK
Linde Werdelin Oktopus Moon Gold 3DTP Carbon
Straight from the manufacturer
Linde Werdelin Oktopus Moon Gold 3DTP Carbon
NZ$ 58,925
BrandBoutique Member
Linde Werdelin LTD
Ulysse Nardin Freak Cruiser Tourbillon 2056-131 Rose Gold 45mm
TOP
Ulysse Nardin Freak Cruiser Tourbillon 2056-131 Rose Gold 45mm
NZ$ 69,323
Seller
Taleda
329
CH
Ateliers deMonaco Admirale Chronographe Flyback Classique
Straight from the manufacturer
Ateliers deMonaco Admirale Chronographe Flyback Classique
NZ$ 41,490
BrandBoutique Member
Les Ateliers deMonaco SARL
A. Lange & Söhne Langematik Perpetual English dial
TOP
A. Lange & Söhne Langematik Perpetual English dial
NZ$ 89,722
Seller
WatchesofMayfair.com
360
UK
Breguet Classique Automatico Brillantes
TOP
Breguet Classique Automatico Brillantes
NZ$ 24,116
Seller
Fernando Monge SA
98
ES
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date Factory Champagne Diamond Dial
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date Factory Champagne Diamond Dial
NZ$ 19,723
Seller
Emron Watches
 
UK
Vacheron Constantin ASYMMETRICAL 1972 PRESTIGE DE LA FRANCE  #...
TOP
Vacheron Constantin ASYMMETRICAL 1972 PRESTIGE DE LA FRANCE #...
NZ$ 52,667
Free shipping
Seller
Ye Olde Timekeepers, Inc.
9
US
Universal Genève Tri Compax TriCompax
Universal Genève Tri Compax TriCompax
NZ$ 61,716
Seller
Private Seller
NZ
Zeno-Watch Basel Magellano Bicompax 18K Gold  6069BVD-GG-f2
TOP
Zeno-Watch Basel Magellano Bicompax 18K Gold 6069BVD-GG-f2
NZ$ 5,618
Free shipping
Seller
Pawndeluxe
57
NL
Linde Werdelin SpidoSpeed Gold
Straight from the manufacturer
Linde Werdelin SpidoSpeed Gold
NZ$ 55,459
BrandBoutique Member
Linde Werdelin LTD
Cartier Pasha Flying Tourbillon Skeleton W3030021 White Gold 42mm
TOP
Cartier Pasha Flying Tourbillon Skeleton W3030021 White Gold 42mm
NZ$ 141,535
Seller
Taleda
329
CH
Ateliers deMonaco Ronde de Monte-Carlo Femme
Straight from the manufacturer
Ateliers deMonaco Ronde de Monte-Carlo Femme
NZ$ 41,490
BrandBoutique Member
Les Ateliers deMonaco SARL
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5712G-001
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5712G-001
NZ$ 69,647
Seller
UK Time Legend
 
UK
De Grisogono Instrumento NUNO
TOP
De Grisogono Instrumento NUNO
NZ$ 15,429
Seller
Fernando Monge SA
98
ES
Rolex Datejust In 18ct Gold Oyster Perpetual With Factory Red...
Rolex Datejust In 18ct Gold Oyster Perpetual With Factory Red...
NZ$ 10,853
Seller
Emron Watches
 
UK
A. Lange & Söhne Lange I
A. Lange & Söhne Lange I
NZ$ 25,067
Free shipping
Seller
A. Grimmeissen Uhren An- und Verkauf
124
DE
Junghans Max Bill Chronoscope Limited Edition
Junghans Max Bill Chronoscope Limited Edition
NZ$ 12,084
Seller
Juwel Wago-Import Vertr.GmbH
 
DE
Rolex Day-Date Borke Ref. 18078 Bj.1983 LC100 +Papiere+Brillia...
Rolex Day-Date Borke Ref. 18078 Bj.1983 LC100 +Papiere+Brillia...
NZ$ 19,016
Seller
Uhren - Borgardts
 
DE
Vacheron Constantin Historiques
Vacheron Constantin Historiques
NZ$ 16,423
Seller
SIMARI GIOIELLI
6
IT
Ateliers deMonaco Ronde de Monte Carlo La Sirène Rubis
Straight from the manufacturer
Ateliers deMonaco Ronde de Monte Carlo La Sirène Rubis
Price on request
BrandBoutique Member
Les Ateliers deMonaco SARL
Rolex Day Date 18238 lapis
Rolex Day Date 18238 lapis
NZ$ 40,626
Seller
chrono v8 ltd
 
UK
Rolex Lady-Datejust
Rolex Lady-Datejust
NZ$ 31,117
Seller
Terzian Garo & Sia OE
 
GR
Rolex 1972 Rolex Day-Date President 36mm 1803 18K Yellow Gold...
Rolex 1972 Rolex Day-Date President 36mm 1803 18K Yellow Gold...
NZ$ 12,632
Seller
Collectors Coins & Jewelry
 
US
Van Cleef & Arpels Rare VCA 1950s Cadenas 18kt yellow gold &...
TOP
Van Cleef & Arpels Rare VCA 1950s Cadenas 18kt yellow gold &...
NZ$ 13,342
Free shipping
Seller
Ye Olde Timekeepers, Inc.
9
US
Rolex Yacht Master
Rolex Yacht Master
NZ$ 15,559
Free shipping
Seller
A. Grimmeissen Uhren An- und Verkauf
124
DE
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chrono 5500v/000r-b074 Rose Gold...
TOP
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chrono 5500v/000r-b074 Rose Gold...
NZ$ 49,104
Seller
Taleda
329
CH
Doxa GRANDE METRE BLUE PLANET LIMITED EDITION 800PCS WORLD
TOP
Doxa GRANDE METRE BLUE PLANET LIMITED EDITION 800PCS WORLD
NZ$ 5,388
Free shipping
Seller
Przedsiębiorstwo Handlowe Usługowe
78
PL
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5712R-001
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5712R-001
Price on request
Seller
UK Time Legend
 
UK
Ateliers deMonaco Ronde de Monte-Carlo Femme
Straight from the manufacturer
Ateliers deMonaco Ronde de Monte-Carlo Femme
NZ$ 112,887
BrandBoutique Member
Les Ateliers deMonaco SARL
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony
NZ$ 10,027
Seller
Saan Marco Orologi D'epoca
 
IT
TAG Heuer CAV514C.FC8171
TAG Heuer CAV514C.FC8171
NZ$ 28,006
Seller
JOYERÍA TACTOC
 
ES
Rolex Factory Diamond Rolex Day-Date President 36mm 18239 18K...
Rolex Factory Diamond Rolex Day-Date President 36mm 18239 18K...
NZ$ 18,810
Seller
Collectors Coins & Jewelry
 
US
Cartier vintage1940S DIAMOND SET PLATINUM18KT YG TRIPLE TWIST...
TOP
Cartier vintage1940S DIAMOND SET PLATINUM18KT YG TRIPLE TWIST...
NZ$ 10,955
Free shipping
Seller
Ye Olde Timekeepers, Inc.
9
US
Hublot Big Bang Rosegold Chrono
Hublot Big Bang Rosegold Chrono
NZ$ 28,092
Free shipping
Seller
A. Grimmeissen Uhren An- und Verkauf
124
DE
Corum Golden Bridge 313.150.55/0001 Fn02 Rose Gold Leather 37mm
TOP
Corum Golden Bridge 313.150.55/0001 Fn02 Rose Gold Leather 37mm
NZ$ 40,439
Seller
Taleda
329
CH
Rolex Oyster Perpetual With Factory Diamonds Dial & Papers
Rolex Oyster Perpetual With Factory Diamonds Dial & Papers
NZ$ 10,853
Seller
Emron Watches
 
UK
Blancpain Ultra Slim Limited Edition To Only 333 Pieces,- 18K...
TOP
Blancpain Ultra Slim Limited Edition To Only 333 Pieces,- 18K...
NZ$ 6,656
Free shipping
Seller
Pawndeluxe
57
NL
Ateliers deMonaco Tourbillon Oculus 1297
Straight from the manufacturer
Ateliers deMonaco Tourbillon Oculus 1297
NZ$ 114,962
BrandBoutique Member
Les Ateliers deMonaco SARL
IWC Portuguese Perpetual Calendar
TOP
IWC Portuguese Perpetual Calendar
NZ$ 46,227
Seller
WatchesofMayfair.com
360
UK
Omega De Ville Coaxial Limited Edition
Omega De Ville Coaxial Limited Edition
NZ$ 13,484
Seller
Sfera GmbH
 
AT
Rolex 2015 Rolex Day-Date II 41mm Diamond President 218238 18K...
Rolex 2015 Rolex Day-Date II 41mm Diamond President 218238 18K...
NZ$ 58,977
Seller
Collectors Coins & Jewelry
 
US
Girard Perregaux ITALIAN 18 Kt YG EMERALD RUBY FIGLEAF WATCH
TOP
Girard Perregaux ITALIAN 18 Kt YG EMERALD RUBY FIGLEAF WATCH
NZ$ 16,854
Free shipping
Seller
Ye Olde Timekeepers, Inc.
9
US
Patek Philippe Jahreskalender
Patek Philippe Jahreskalender
NZ$ 25,067
Free shipping
Seller
A. Grimmeissen Uhren An- und Verkauf
124
DE
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Squadra Hometime Rose Gold 230.2.77
TOP
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Squadra Hometime Rose Gold 230.2.77
NZ$ 16,337
Seller
Filipucci Juweliers
378
NL
Rolex Datejust With Factory Champagne Dial & Rolex Paperwork
Rolex Datejust With Factory Champagne Dial & Rolex Paperwork
NZ$ 11,840
Seller
Emron Watches
 
UK
IWC Portuguese Automatic 18K Rose Gold (IW500113)
IWC Portuguese Automatic 18K Rose Gold (IW500113)
NZ$ 22,470
Seller
The Watch Movement
 
US
Ateliers deMonaco Ronde de Monte-Carlo Femme
Straight from the manufacturer
Ateliers deMonaco Ronde de Monte-Carlo Femme
NZ$ 44,429
BrandBoutique Member
Les Ateliers deMonaco SARL
A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk
TOP
A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk
NZ$ 86,541
Seller
WatchesofMayfair.com
360
UK
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Gold Watches: Elegant and Valuable

A gold watch is the epitome of luxury. For thousands of years, this precious metal has been a symbol of permanence and wealth. Most gold watches are elegant dress watches, though some have a sportier design.

Features

  • 18-karat or 750 gold indicates it's 75% gold
  • 14-karat gold or 585 gold is less common
  • Many gold-electroplated vintage watches
  • Watches with modern PVD coating are in the lower price range
  • Some manufacturers offer their own alloys such as Everose or Sedna gold

Gold Cases: The Mixture Makes the Difference

When gold comes to mind, people most often think of yellow gold. However, many types of gold are used in the watch industry, such as white, pink, and red gold . There are also in-house alloys made by manufacturers like Omega's Sedna gold and Rolex's Everose, both red gold alloys. A unique alloy is Hublot's Magic Gold, which combines yellow gold and ceramic, making it extremely scratch resistant.
Technically, a timepiece can only be considered a gold watch if the case is made of solid gold . However, you can count watches in a lower price range as well, as their cases are made of stainless steel which is then coated in gold.
A gold watch is almost always produced from an metal alloy. Pure gold, which you find in the form of coins or bars available for purchase, is used to plate the surfaces of cases made of a different material. As it's relatively soft, some manufacturers mix it with other metals in-house in order to make it harder and more scratch resistant or to give it another hue.
A value of one karat means that the material is composed of 1/24th gold. Pure gold is thus 24 karat. Watch cases with the highest percentage of gold are 18-karat cases , a value equal to 750 gold. The 750 represents the percentage of pure gold out of 1,000. In a 750 alloy, 75% of the material is pure gold, while the rest consists of other metals. Silver and copper are mixed together with yellow gold. The amount varies, however, in order to slightly change the tone of the yellow gold.
Red and pink gold have a much larger percentage of copper than silver, which gives the gold its reddish-pinkish hue. White gold, on the other hand, has more silver than copper. Particularly valuable 18-karat white gold watches are made with an alloy containing platinum or palladium.
Cases made of 14-karat gold (585 gold) can also be found, although most manufacturers offer 18-karat gold watches today. This applies to watches in both mid and upper price ranges, such as those from Longines, Maurice Lacroix, and Tissot.
Some manufacturers use gold-colored coatings that resemble gold, but are actually something else entirely. The most common of these methods uses a PVD (physical vapor deposition) coating. During this process, the coating is applied via vacuum deposition. PVD coatings can also be made of gold and are regarded as very scratch resistant.
An alternative is electroplating gold on stainless steel cases. The gold layer is very thin; 20 microns is the norm. One micron is 1/1,000th of a millimeter. The gold plating is either 18 or 24-karat gold and prone to scratches, but can be redone if necessary. The PVD method has grown in popularity in recent years, so you will most frequently encounter electroplated watches in the vintage market.

Buying Advice

If you want to buy a gold watch, then you should pay attention to the karats. An 18-karat gold watch is an 18-karat gold watch, regardless of the manufacturer.
The price difference between gold and stainless steel versions of the same watch can be quite considerable. A stainless steel Rolex Submariner with a date display costs about 7,000 euros new, while a yellow gold version in the same condition costs 21,000 euros.
The price and value of an 18-karat gold watch also depends on the price of gold. The market price varies, but has usually been over $1,000 for one troy ounce (31 grams) of gold over the last few years. In the summer of 2011, it shot up to around $1,900. It is unlikely that the price will drop below $1,000. The price of gold watches has gone up simply due to their material worth. In the 1990s, the price was still oscillating between $300 and $400. Since gold also functions as a replacement currency in crisis situations, gold watches are a relatively secure investment. In the worst case, the watch retains value based on the weight of its gold. For this to be the case, however, one should imagine that times are tough and the gold price is thus very high.
Normally, the collector's value and the manufacturer's reputation play a deciding role in determining the price of a timepiece. Gold watches from an independent manufacturer powered by in-house calibers cost the most. Rolex's Submariner isn't the only expensive gold watch they offer. Other series have gold models, such as the Daytona or the Day-Date. The Day-Date is offered with a white gold, yellow gold, or Everose alloy, and the cases are available in many different sizes.
The story is similar with Omega. Their diving watch Seamaster is available in 18-karat gold, and the company offers a large selection of gold watches in their De Ville collection.
Patek Philippe is the ultimate manufacturer of gold watches. No other renowned Swiss manufacturer relies so much on the precious metal like the Genevan family business. The Calatrava is Patek Philippe's most classic series.
Patek Philippe is one of the few manufacturers who doesn't only make the case out of gold, but important parts of the movement as well. A good example is the rotor of an automatic movement, which is often decorated with engravings. Rolex also uses white gold indices - even on the models with a stainless steel case. Not just for aesthetic reasons, either: Gold doesn't tarnish.

Swiss Dominance

According to tradition, the first solid gold wristwatch was made by Girad-Perregaux and was delivered to the German Emperor William I in 1879. Now, around 500,000 gold watches are produced each year, with 90% of them being made in Switzerland. Rolex plays a prominent role in this, as they alone produce 200,000 of these gold watches. In one year, Rolex produces around 800,000 watches, making gold watches a quarter of their total production. The company produces cases in their own foundry. Gold plays an even more important role for the luxury manufacturer Patek Philippe, however. Gold watches dominate Patek's portfolio; there are only a few stainless steel models available. Usually, it's the other way around. Gold remains an expensive exception for most companies. A popular compromise is to create a bicolor watch, where parts of the case and bracelet are made of stainless steel and others of gold. Rolex calls this Rolesor.

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