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Piaget Very good Yellow gold Manual winding
TOP
Piaget A Rare 1970s Malachite Hardstone Diamond Set 18 Kt...
NZ$ 17,418
Free shipping
Professional dealer
38
US
Patek Philippe Chronograph 5975J-001 New Yellow gold 40mm Automatic
TOP
Patek Philippe Chronograph 5975J-001 limited edition new full...
NZ$ 117,814
Professional dealer
129
CH
Patek Philippe Calatrava 5227G Unworn White gold 39mm Automatic
TOP
Patek Philippe Calatrava 5227G "Tiffany & Co" 5227G-010
NZ$ 65,286
Free shipping
Professional dealer
US
Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse 3589 Very good White gold 36mm Automatic
TOP
Patek Philippe Rare ellipse Man White Gold 18k blue dial 36 x...
NZ$ 14,380
Professional dealer
129
CH
Breguet Classique Complications 5317BR/12/9V6 New Rose gold 39mm Automatic
TOP
Breguet Grandes Complications Tourbillon, 5-days power-reserve...
NZ$ 114,409
Professional dealer
58
CH
Piaget 14102 Very good Yellow gold 33mm Quartz
TOP
Piaget Integrated Bracelet Beta21, Hawk Eye Dial
NZ$ 26,067
Professional dealer
69
CH
Girard Perregaux Laureato 80189D52A132-CB6A New Rose gold 34mm Quartz
TOP
Girard Perregaux Laureato rose gold new full set
NZ$ 17,326
Professional dealer
129
CH
Vacheron Constantin Historiques 49002/3 Very good Yellow gold 35mm Automatic
Vacheron Constantin Historiques Chronograph 18K Gold Herrenuhr...
NZ$ 17,395

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Omega Omega Cal 286 18K Gold Very good Yellow gold 33mm Manual winding
TOP
Omega 18k Gold vintage Cal 286 1962
NZ$ 2,857
Professional dealer
156
HU
Vacheron Constantin 6394 Very good Yellow gold 36mm Automatic
TOP
Vacheron Constantin Stunning 36mm Vintage 60´s 18kt Yellow...
NZ$ 12,119
Professional dealer
801
ES
Rolex Day-Date 40 228238 Very good Yellow gold 40mm Automatic New Zealand, Auckland
Rolex Day-Date 40
NZ$ 61,852
Professional dealer
 
NZ
Rolex Submariner Date 126619LB Very good White gold 41mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Submariner Date Blueberry Reference #: 126619LB
NZ$ 72,577
Professional dealer
80
US
Omega Speedmaster 36233300 Unworn Rose gold 39mm Automatic
TOP
Omega Speedmaster 39mm Ref#3623.33.01
NZ$ 14,929
Professional dealer
850
US
Breguet Classique 5287BR/92/9ZU New Rose gold 43mm Manual winding
TOP
Breguet Classique Chronograph, double seconds totalizer,...
NZ$ 46,604
Professional dealer
58
CH
Jaeger-LeCoultre Very good White gold 15mm Manual winding
TOP
Jaeger-LeCoultre Feminine Vintage White Gold Diamond Set...
NZ$ 6,319
Professional dealer
69
CH
Girard Perregaux WW.TC 49800 New Rose gold 43mm Automatic
TOP
Girard Perregaux Ww.tc world time chronograph
NZ$ 19,058
Professional dealer
129
CH
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony 81180 Very good White gold 40mm Manual winding
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony 18K Weissgold Handaufzug...
NZ$ 15,333

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Omega Omega Gold Pocket Watch Very good Yellow gold 47mm Manual winding
TOP
Omega 14K Gold Pocket watch taschenuhr 1923
NZ$ 2,857
Professional dealer
156
HU
Patek Philippe Gondolo 5024G Very good White gold 30mm Manual winding
TOP
Patek Philippe 2002 Full Set Salmon Rose Dial Arabic Numerals...
NZ$ 20,782
Professional dealer
801
ES
Audemars Piguet Very good White gold 31mm Automatic
TOP
Audemars Piguet by FRED white gold Mint conditions
NZ$ 15,420
Professional dealer
49
FR
Jaeger-LeCoultre Very good Rose gold 36mm Manual winding
TOP
Jaeger-LeCoultre Exclusive Triple Date 18K Rose Gold Cal.484...
NZ$ 9,789
Professional dealer
137
DE
Breguet Classique 8068BB/52/964 DD00 Good White gold 30mm Automatic New Zealand, Auckland
Breguet Classique
NZ$ 22,296
Professional dealer
22
NZ
Breguet Héritage 5400BB/12/9V6 New White gold 42mm Automatic
TOP
Breguet Héritage Chronograph, new, white gold, hand-guilloched...
NZ$ 44,155
Professional dealer
58
CH
IWC 3203 Very good Yellow gold 36mm Quartz
TOP
IWC International Beta 21
NZ$ 14,218
Professional dealer
69
CH
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso (submodel) Q3002420 New Rose gold Manual winding
TOP
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Septantieme Limited
NZ$ 39,495
Professional dealer
121
CH
Blancpain Villeret 6595 Very good Yellow gold 33.5mm Automatic
Blancpain Villeret Quantieme Kalender Mondphase 18K Gold...
NZ$ 8,282

Sold by Chrono24

DE
De Grisogono FG ONE N03 Very good Rose gold 33mm Automatic
TOP
De Grisogono Fg One 18K. Pink Gold
NZ$ 15,506
Professional dealer
406
NL
Breguet Type XX - XXI - XXII 3820BB/P2/9W6 Very good White gold 40mm Automatic
TOP
Breguet Rare Full Set Blue Dial White Gold 18kt 750 Type Xx...
NZ$ 20,782
Professional dealer
801
ES
Jaquet-Droz J017533270 New Rose gold 43mm Automatic
TOP
Jaquet-Droz Grande Heure Minute Quantieme Meteorite Dial...
NZ$ 27,548
Free shipping
Professional dealer
655
LV
Jaeger-LeCoultre Very good Yellow gold 37mm Automatic
TOP
Jaeger-LeCoultre MEMOVOX 1962 Automatic 825 Date Black Glossy
NZ$ 7,537
Professional dealer
137
DE
Chopard Happy Diamonds 205904-0001 Unworn Yellow gold Quartz
TOP
Chopard Happy Diamonds /Chopard Service/Rare Reference/Service...
NZ$ 11,057
Professional dealer
11
CH
Breguet Tradition 7037BA/11/9V6 New Yellow gold 39mm Automatic
TOP
Breguet Tradition, new, yellow gold
NZ$ 30,885
Professional dealer
58
CH
Ulysse Nardin Very good White gold 28mm Manual winding
TOP
Ulysse Nardin White Gold High Class Diamond Ladies Watch
NZ$ 9,479
Professional dealer
69
CH
Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 231.55.39.21.55.001 Unworn Rose gold 38.5mm Automatic
TOP
Omega Seamaster
NZ$ 29,226
Professional dealer
121
CH
Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 2104.30.00 Very good Yellow gold 36mm Automatic
Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Mid Size 18K Gold Automatik...
NZ$ 18,105

Sold by Chrono24

DE
IWC Very good Rose gold 36mm Manual winding
TOP
IWC Cal. 89 Rose Gold Shark Lugs SERVICED
NZ$ 4,487
Professional dealer
30
CH
Girard Perregaux 1966 49539-53-451-BK6B Very good White gold 40mm Automatic
TOP
Girard Perregaux Rare Manufacture White Gold 18kt 750 Column...
NZ$ 20,782
Professional dealer
801
ES
Universal Genève Polerouter Very good Rose gold 33.5mm Automatic
TOP
Universal Genève Polerouter deluxe Microtor 18ct Rose Gold
NZ$ 9,875
Professional dealer
283
UK
Vacheron Constantin 4218 Very good Yellow gold 36mm Manual winding
TOP
Vacheron Constantin Vintage 18K Gold 1946 Ref. 4218 Extract
NZ$ 12,041
Professional dealer
137
DE
Chopard Classic 16/1235 Good Yellow gold 34mm Automatic New Zealand
Chopard - Classique Homme
NZ$ 8,150
Professional dealer
 
NZ
Breguet Classique 5247BR/29/9V6 New Rose gold 39mm Manual winding
TOP
Breguet Classique Chronograph, new, rose gold, hand-guilloched...
NZ$ 38,839
Professional dealer
58
CH
Movado Very good White gold 19mm Manual winding
TOP
Movado 1971 White Gold Diamonds Ladies Jewel, Bahrain
NZ$ 7,109
Professional dealer
69
CH
Breitling Cockpit K30011 Very good Yellow gold 38mm Automatic
TOP
Breitling Cockpit
NZ$ 11,059
Professional dealer
121
CH
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date 15238 Very good Yellow gold 34mm Automatic
Rolex Date 34 18K (0,750) Gold Automatik Herrenuhr Oyster...
NZ$ 19,716

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Girard Perregaux Vintage 1945 90275-52-111-BA6A Unworn Rose gold 36mm Automatic
TOP
Girard Perregaux Vintage 1945 XXL Perpetual Calendar Equation...
NZ$ 38,547
Professional dealer
30
CH
Roger Dubuis Sympathie S46.56.0 Very good White gold 44mm Automatic
TOP
Roger Dubuis Limited Edition 1th of 28 pieces Sympathie S46...
NZ$ 25,980
Professional dealer
801
ES
Rolex Daytona 116515LN-0041 New Rose gold 40mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Everose Gold Choco Dial (New Full Set)
NZ$ 73,845
Free shipping
Professional dealer
21
HK
IWC Very good Rose gold 37mm Manual winding
TOP
IWC Excellent 18K Rose Gold Vintage 1955 Cal. 89
NZ$ 6,757
Professional dealer
137
DE
Rolex Lady-Datejust 6917 Very good Yellow gold 26mm Automatic New Zealand
Rolex - 1981 Ladies Datejust 'President'
NZ$ 15,500
Professional dealer
 
NZ
Breguet Classique 8788BR/29/986 DD00 New Rose gold 36mm Automatic
TOP
Breguet Classique, new, moon phase, power-reserve indicator, ...
NZ$ 29,937
Professional dealer
58
CH
Ebel Classic Hexagon Very good Yellow gold 36mm Quartz
TOP
Ebel Iconic Hexagonal Pendant / Pocket Watch, Solid Gold
NZ$ 6,319
Professional dealer
69
CH
Chopard L.U.C 161934-5001 New Rose gold 40mm Automatic
TOP
Chopard L.U.C.
NZ$ 22,117
Professional dealer
121
CH
Rolex Day-Date 36 18239 Very good White gold 36mm Automatic
Rolex Day-Date 36 18K Weissgold Automatik Herrenuhr Oyster...
NZ$ 35,067

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Longines Conquest New Yellow gold 33,2mm Quartz
TOP
Longines Conquest
NZ$ 12,821
Free shipping
Professional dealer
34
IT
Rolex Day-Date 36 18038 18238 Very good Yellow gold 36mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Day Date President 18K Box Booklets Green Vignette VVS...
NZ$ 25,173
Professional dealer
23
US
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph 5204/1R-001 New Rose gold 40.2mm Manual winding
TOP
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Rose Gold Case...
NZ$ 401,942
Free shipping
Professional dealer
21
HK
Chronographe Suisse Cie CSC 29445 Very good Rose gold 38mm Manual winding
TOP
Chronographe Suisse Cie Grande Chronograph 18K Rose Gold CSC...
NZ$ 2,166
Free shipping
Professional dealer
951
NL
Breguet Tradition 7027BA/11 9U6 Very good Yellow gold 37mm Manual winding New Zealand
Breguet - Tradition
NZ$ 28,500
Professional dealer
 
NZ
Corum 286.253.55/0001 BN68 New Rose gold 38mm Manual winding
TOP
Corum Vintage Charge d'affairs, new, alarm, manual wind...
NZ$ 12,630
Professional dealer
58
CH
Chopard 1038 Very good White gold 33mm Automatic
TOP
Chopard White Gold Jade Saudi Arabia: King Khalid, DoubleSigned
NZ$ 12,638
Professional dealer
69
CH
Jacob & Co. OP110.40.AG.AB.A Very good Rose gold 47mm Manual winding
Jacob & Co. Opera Godfather Musical Rose Gold Limited Edition...
NZ$ 454,912
Professional dealer
 
UK
Rolex Lady-Datejust 6521 Very good Yellow gold 25mm Automatic
Rolex Lady Datejust 18K Gold Automatik Damenuhr Oyster...
NZ$ 5,804

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Longines New Yellow gold 34mm Quartz
TOP
Longines Planetarium
NZ$ 12,648
Free shipping
Professional dealer
34
IT
Patek Philippe Twenty~4 4908/11R-010 New Rose gold 22mm Quartz
TOP
Patek Philippe Twenty~4
Price on request
Professional dealer
11
SG

Gold Watches: Elegant and Valuable

A gold watch is the epitome of luxury. For thousands of years, this precious metal has been a symbol of permanence and wealth. Most gold watches are elegant dress watches, though some have a sportier design.


Features

  • 18-karat or 750 gold indicates it's 75% gold
  • 14-karat gold or 585 gold is less common
  • Many gold-electroplated vintage watches
  • Watches with modern PVD coating are in the lower price range
  • Some manufacturers offer their own alloys such as Everose or Sedna gold

Gold Cases: The Mixture Makes the Difference

When gold comes to mind, people most often think of yellow gold. However, many types of gold are used in the watch industry, such as white, pink, and red gold . There are also in-house alloys made by manufacturers like Omega's Sedna gold and Rolex's Everose, both red gold alloys. A unique alloy is Hublot's Magic Gold, which combines yellow gold and ceramic, making it extremely scratch resistant.

Technically, a timepiece can only be considered a gold watch if the case is made of solid gold . However, you can count watches in a lower price range as well, as their cases are made of stainless steel which is then coated in gold.

A gold watch is almost always produced from an metal alloy. Pure gold, which you find in the form of coins or bars available for purchase, is used to plate the surfaces of cases made of a different material. As it's relatively soft, some manufacturers mix it with other metals in-house in order to make it harder and more scratch resistant or to give it another hue.

A value of one karat means that the material is composed of 1/24th gold. Pure gold is thus 24 karat. Watch cases with the highest percentage of gold are 18-karat cases , a value equal to 750 gold. The 750 represents the percentage of pure gold out of 1,000. In a 750 alloy, 75% of the material is pure gold, while the rest consists of other metals. Silver and copper are mixed together with yellow gold. The amount varies, however, in order to slightly change the tone of the yellow gold.

Red and pink gold have a much larger percentage of copper than silver, which gives the gold its reddish-pinkish hue. White gold, on the other hand, has more silver than copper. Particularly valuable 18-karat white gold watches are made with an alloy containing platinum or palladium.

Cases made of 14-karat gold (585 gold) can also be found, although most manufacturers offer 18-karat gold watches today. This applies to watches in both mid and upper price ranges, such as those from Longines, Maurice Lacroix, and Tissot.

Some manufacturers use gold-colored coatings that resemble gold, but are actually something else entirely. The most common of these methods uses a PVD (physical vapor deposition) coating. During this process, the coating is applied via vacuum deposition. PVD coatings can also be made of gold and are regarded as very scratch resistant.

An alternative is electroplating gold on stainless steel cases. The gold layer is very thin; 20 microns is the norm. One micron is 1/1,000th of a millimeter. The gold plating is either 18 or 24-karat gold and prone to scratches, but can be redone if necessary. The PVD method has grown in popularity in recent years, so you will most frequently encounter electroplated watches in the vintage market.


Buying Advice

If you want to buy a gold watch, then you should pay attention to the karats. An 18-karat gold watch is an 18-karat gold watch, regardless of the manufacturer.

The price difference between gold and stainless steel versions of the same watch can be quite considerable. A stainless steel Rolex Submariner with a date display costs about 7,000 euros new, while a yellow gold version in the same condition costs 21,000 euros.

The price and value of an 18-karat gold watch also depends on the price of gold. The market price varies, but has usually been over $1,000 for one troy ounce (31 grams) of gold over the last few years. In the summer of 2011, it shot up to around $1,900. It is unlikely that the price will drop below $1,000. The price of gold watches has gone up simply due to their material worth. In the 1990s, the price was still oscillating between $300 and $400. Since gold also functions as a replacement currency in crisis situations, gold watches are a relatively secure investment. In the worst case, the watch retains value based on the weight of its gold. For this to be the case, however, one should imagine that times are tough and the gold price is thus very high.

Normally, the collector's value and the manufacturer's reputation play a deciding role in determining the price of a timepiece. Gold watches from an independent manufacturer powered by in-house calibers cost the most. Rolex's Submariner isn't the only expensive gold watch they offer. Other series have gold models, such as the Daytona or the Day-Date. The Day-Date is offered with a white gold, yellow gold, or Everose alloy, and the cases are available in many different sizes.

The story is similar with Omega. Their diving watch Seamaster is available in 18-karat gold, and the company offers a large selection of gold watches in their De Ville collection.

Patek Philippe is the ultimate manufacturer of gold watches. No other renowned Swiss manufacturer relies so much on the precious metal like the Genevan family business. The Calatrava is Patek Philippe's most classic series.

Patek Philippe is one of the few manufacturers who doesn't only make the case out of gold, but important parts of the movement as well. A good example is the rotor of an automatic movement, which is often decorated with engravings. Rolex also uses white gold indices - even on the models with a stainless steel case. Not just for aesthetic reasons, either: Gold doesn't tarnish.


Swiss Dominance

According to tradition, the first solid gold wristwatch was made by Girad-Perregaux and was delivered to the German Emperor William I in 1879. Now, around 500,000 gold watches are produced each year, with 90% of them being made in Switzerland. Rolex plays a prominent role in this, as they alone produce 200,000 of these gold watches. In one year, Rolex produces around 800,000 watches, making gold watches a quarter of their total production. The company produces cases in their own foundry. Gold plays an even more important role for the luxury manufacturer Patek Philippe, however. Gold watches dominate Patek's portfolio; there are only a few stainless steel models available. Usually, it's the other way around. Gold remains an expensive exception for most companies. A popular compromise is to create a bicolor watch, where parts of the case and bracelet are made of stainless steel and others of gold. Rolex calls this Rolesor.