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TOP
Patek Philippe Complications
NZ$ 61,132
Seller
LUXE WARE (HK) LIMITED
153
HK
TOP
Vacheron Constantin Special Order 1960s Asymmetrical Sapphire...
NZ$ 14,868
Free shipping
Seller
Ye Olde Timekeepers, Inc.
24
US
TOP
Patek Philippe Nautilus
NZ$ 388,138
Seller
LUXE WARE (HK) LIMITED
153
HK
TOP
Rolex Datejust 31mm Diamonds 68158
NZ$ 16,771
Seller
Oreficeria Lupetta Srl
265
IT
TOP
Rolex Datejust Pearlmaster 39
NZ$ 107,604
Seller
Chronometrie Stäuble AG
18
CH
TOP
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Contemporaine 85180/000G-9230
NZ$ 24,198
Free shipping
Seller
WatchBox
517
US
TOP
Rolex Daytona SODALITE-GHIERA DIAMANTI
NZ$ 66,405
Seller
Billion Bucks
11
IT
TOP
Rolex OYSTER PERPETUAL CHRONOMETER 18K GOLD HONEYCOMB WABENBLATT
NZ$ 13,604
Seller
Timeless Watches GmbH
351
DE
TOP
Cyma 016998 1121
NZ$ 1,703
Seller
Private Seller
NZ
TOP
Omega De Ville Hour Vision 18K Redgold NEW
NZ$ 17,180
Seller
Timeless Watches & Jewellery AG
608
LI
TOP
Rolex Pre Daytona 6238 14k gold w certificate
NZ$ 187,295
Seller
MMC RIVIERA
7
MC
TOP
Patek Philippe Perpetual calendar chrono TV screen VERY RARE
NZ$ 387,361
Seller
CONCEPT LUXURY
214
IT
TOP
Omega vintage 18ct gold dress watch
NZ$ 7,348
Seller
The Watch Collector Ltd.
140
UK
TOP
Rolex Datejust Pearlmaster 34
NZ$ 33,815
Seller
Chronometrie Stäuble AG
18
CH
TOP
A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 101.030
NZ$ 30,267
Free shipping
Seller
WatchBox
517
US
TOP
Omega De Ville Prestige Co-Axial 18K Red Gold 36.5 MM Caliber...
NZ$ 5,534
Free shipping
Seller
Pawndeluxe
399
NL
TOP
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Superflat 18K Gold Gelbgold...
NZ$ 5,091
Seller
Timeless Watches GmbH
351
DE
TOP
Piaget Possession 34 mm
NZ$ 11,919
Seller
WatchesofMayfair.com
668
UK
TOP
Omega Geneve Gold Watch 14K 1970 c.601
NZ$ 2,042
Free shipping
Seller
ZEGARKI-VINTAGE
34
PL
TOP
Patek Philippe Gondolo Yellow Gold with Paper
NZ$ 38,992
Seller
Erma Consulting SA
90
CH
TOP
IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar
NZ$ 15,016
Free shipping
Seller
Chronolux.com
13
UK
TOP
Zenith vintage automatic 18K Gold 1968 Full set
NZ$ 2,893
Seller
qualityextra
42
HU
TOP
Breguet Classique
NZ$ 18,434
Seller
Chronometrie Stäuble AG
18
CH
TOP
Vacheron Constantin Medicus Chronograph 47150/000R
NZ$ 40,887
Free shipping
Seller
WatchBox
517
US
TOP
Cartier Pasha 18K Solid White Gold VVS1 Diamond's 34mm - 2398
NZ$ 15,580
Free shipping
Seller
Pawndeluxe
399
NL
TOP
Breguet Marine 18K Gold Tropical Papiere & Box Service 12/2018
NZ$ 21,267
Seller
Timeless Watches GmbH
351
DE
TOP
Chopard Damenuhr -750- Gelbgold mit Brillantlünette
NZ$ 4,851
Seller
Gute-Zeiten-Leer GmbH
113
DE
TOP
Omega Historical 18K Savonette, Massive, Heavy & Rare
NZ$ 4,228
Seller
Plus Ultra AG
12
CH
TOP
Elgin 14K (0.585) Grade 156 3 Finger Bridge
NZ$ 3,482
Seller
Urwerk29
25
US
TOP
Festina Lady Gold Diamonds
NZ$ 8,343
Seller
Arte Oro
13
ES
TOP
Eberhard & Co. Chrono 120 ÉME Aniversario Edicion Limitada
NZ$ 14,813
Seller
CANTELI JOYEROS SL
41
ES
TOP
Breguet Tradition
NZ$ 32,270
Seller
Chronometrie Stäuble AG
18
CH
TOP
Cartier Ballon Bleu de Cartier WGBB0020
NZ$ 18,130
Free shipping
Seller
WatchBox
517
US
TOP
Franck Muller Sunset XL Limited Edition Sparkling Dial - 18K...
NZ$ 10,131
Free shipping
Seller
Pawndeluxe
399
NL
TOP
Rolex Lady Datejust 18K Gold Weissgold Automatic Automatik
NZ$ 11,902
Seller
Timeless Watches GmbH
351
DE
TOP
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar
Price on request
Free shipping
Seller
superstudio
9
CH
TOP
Piaget 100 years, Limited Edition: one of 100
NZ$ 6,534
Seller
Plus Ultra AG
12
CH
TOP
Jaeger-LeCoultre CLUB 18K 70s
NZ$ 4,086
Free shipping
Seller
Goldammer
36
DE
TOP
Girard Perregaux Vintage Chronograph
NZ$ 18,737
Seller
Metals In Time
6
US
Rolex Cellini Date inkl. 19%
NZ$ 24,689
Seller
Helmut Seidl GmbH
13
DE
TOP
Breguet Classique
NZ$ 26,736
Seller
Chronometrie Stäuble AG
18
CH
TOP
F.P.Journe Vagabondage III VAGABONDAGE III
NZ$ 113,710
Free shipping
Seller
WatchBox
517
US
TOP
Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Les Classiques 18K Rose Gold 40mm
NZ$ 4,853
Free shipping
Seller
Pawndeluxe
399
NL
Rolex GMT-Master II
NZ$ 55,222
Seller
Ahead Of Time Sunny Isles LLC
27
US
TOP
Patek Philippe Vintage
NZ$ 11,067
Free shipping
Seller
superstudio
9
CH
TOP
Gérald Genta Maxi Time, Mother of Pearl and Lapis Lazuli Dial,...
NZ$ 10,147
Seller
Plus Ultra AG
12
CH
Patek Philippe 3940J - Perpetual Calendar - Full Set & PP Service
NZ$ 58,743
Seller
nobeluhren-store.de
23
DE
TOP
A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Jahreskalender
NZ$ 55,347
Free shipping
Seller
Rent a Box Schmuck und Uhren AG
12
CH
Rolex Day-Date II
NZ$ 50,910
Seller
Helmut Seidl GmbH
13
DE
TOP
Jaquet-Droz LegendGeneva Grande Seconde - limited edition No. 1/8
NZ$ 25,352
Seller
Chronometrie Stäuble AG
18
CH
TOP
Blancpain Leman Grand Date 2850-3554-55B
NZ$ 49,990
Free shipping
Seller
WatchBox
517
US
TOP
Jaeger-LeCoultre Vintage Le Coultre Pre Reverso - 18K Yellow Gold
NZ$ 4,172
Free shipping
Seller
Pawndeluxe
399
NL
Rolex Day-Date 36
NZ$ 38,517
Seller
Ahead Of Time Sunny Isles LLC
27
US
TOP
Vacheron Constantin Calatrava pulsante oro 12
NZ$ 13,621
Free shipping
Seller
superstudio
9
CH
TOP
Piaget Polo, White Gold, Onyx Dial, Rare
NZ$ 13,683
Seller
Plus Ultra AG
12
CH
Rolex DAY-DATE | 18238 | Box & Certificate | Rolex Service 2018
NZ$ 23,838
Seller
nobeluhren-store.de
23
DE
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date
NZ$ 8,950
Seller
Guarded Crown
18
US
Cartier Tank Francaise WE1001R8
NZ$ 16,857
Seller
Helmut Seidl GmbH
13
DE
TOP
Corum Golden Bridge, lim. 29/200 - official retai price 45.550...
NZ$ 38,420
Seller
Chronometrie Stäuble AG
18
CH
TOP
Piaget Gouverneur G0A38110
NZ$ 25,716
Free shipping
Seller
WatchBox
517
US
TOP
Blancpain Ultraplate 18kt Rose Gold & Diamonds White Automatic...
NZ$ 8,343
Free shipping
Seller
Pawndeluxe
399
NL
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph Michael Schumacher
NZ$ 158,617
Seller
Ahead Of Time Sunny Isles LLC
27
US
TOP
Patek Philippe Calatrava 460 settori Pink Gold 18 kt
Price on request
Free shipping
Seller
superstudio
9
CH
TOP
Vacheron Constantin Thin Tank, Onyx Dial, Fine & Rare
NZ$ 5,612
Seller
Plus Ultra AG
12
CH
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Gold Watches: Elegant and Valuable

A gold watch is the epitome of luxury. For thousands of years, this precious metal has been a symbol of permanence and wealth. Most gold watches are elegant dress watches, though some have a sportier design.

Features

  • 18-karat or 750 gold indicates it's 75% gold
  • 14-karat gold or 585 gold is less common
  • Many gold-electroplated vintage watches
  • Watches with modern PVD coating are in the lower price range
  • Some manufacturers offer their own alloys such as Everose or Sedna gold

Gold Cases: The Mixture Makes the Difference

When gold comes to mind, people most often think of yellow gold. However, many types of gold are used in the watch industry, such as white, pink, and red gold . There are also in-house alloys made by manufacturers like Omega's Sedna gold and Rolex's Everose, both red gold alloys. A unique alloy is Hublot's Magic Gold, which combines yellow gold and ceramic, making it extremely scratch resistant.

Technically, a timepiece can only be considered a gold watch if the case is made of solid gold . However, you can count watches in a lower price range as well, as their cases are made of stainless steel which is then coated in gold.

A gold watch is almost always produced from an metal alloy. Pure gold, which you find in the form of coins or bars available for purchase, is used to plate the surfaces of cases made of a different material. As it's relatively soft, some manufacturers mix it with other metals in-house in order to make it harder and more scratch resistant or to give it another hue.

A value of one karat means that the material is composed of 1/24th gold. Pure gold is thus 24 karat. Watch cases with the highest percentage of gold are 18-karat cases , a value equal to 750 gold. The 750 represents the percentage of pure gold out of 1,000. In a 750 alloy, 75% of the material is pure gold, while the rest consists of other metals. Silver and copper are mixed together with yellow gold. The amount varies, however, in order to slightly change the tone of the yellow gold.

Red and pink gold have a much larger percentage of copper than silver, which gives the gold its reddish-pinkish hue. White gold, on the other hand, has more silver than copper. Particularly valuable 18-karat white gold watches are made with an alloy containing platinum or palladium.

Cases made of 14-karat gold (585 gold) can also be found, although most manufacturers offer 18-karat gold watches today. This applies to watches in both mid and upper price ranges, such as those from Longines, Maurice Lacroix, and Tissot.

Some manufacturers use gold-colored coatings that resemble gold, but are actually something else entirely. The most common of these methods uses a PVD (physical vapor deposition) coating. During this process, the coating is applied via vacuum deposition. PVD coatings can also be made of gold and are regarded as very scratch resistant.

An alternative is electroplating gold on stainless steel cases. The gold layer is very thin; 20 microns is the norm. One micron is 1/1,000th of a millimeter. The gold plating is either 18 or 24-karat gold and prone to scratches, but can be redone if necessary. The PVD method has grown in popularity in recent years, so you will most frequently encounter electroplated watches in the vintage market.

Buying Advice

If you want to buy a gold watch, then you should pay attention to the karats. An 18-karat gold watch is an 18-karat gold watch, regardless of the manufacturer.

The price difference between gold and stainless steel versions of the same watch can be quite considerable. A stainless steel Rolex Submariner with a date display costs about 7,000 euros new, while a yellow gold version in the same condition costs 21,000 euros.

The price and value of an 18-karat gold watch also depends on the price of gold. The market price varies, but has usually been over $1,000 for one troy ounce (31 grams) of gold over the last few years. In the summer of 2011, it shot up to around $1,900. It is unlikely that the price will drop below $1,000. The price of gold watches has gone up simply due to their material worth. In the 1990s, the price was still oscillating between $300 and $400. Since gold also functions as a replacement currency in crisis situations, gold watches are a relatively secure investment. In the worst case, the watch retains value based on the weight of its gold. For this to be the case, however, one should imagine that times are tough and the gold price is thus very high.

Normally, the collector's value and the manufacturer's reputation play a deciding role in determining the price of a timepiece. Gold watches from an independent manufacturer powered by in-house calibers cost the most. Rolex's Submariner isn't the only expensive gold watch they offer. Other series have gold models, such as the Daytona or the Day-Date. The Day-Date is offered with a white gold, yellow gold, or Everose alloy, and the cases are available in many different sizes.

The story is similar with Omega. Their diving watch Seamaster is available in 18-karat gold, and the company offers a large selection of gold watches in their De Ville collection.

Patek Philippe is the ultimate manufacturer of gold watches. No other renowned Swiss manufacturer relies so much on the precious metal like the Genevan family business. The Calatrava is Patek Philippe's most classic series.

Patek Philippe is one of the few manufacturers who doesn't only make the case out of gold, but important parts of the movement as well. A good example is the rotor of an automatic movement, which is often decorated with engravings. Rolex also uses white gold indices - even on the models with a stainless steel case. Not just for aesthetic reasons, either: Gold doesn't tarnish.

Swiss Dominance

According to tradition, the first solid gold wristwatch was made by Girad-Perregaux and was delivered to the German Emperor William I in 1879. Now, around 500,000 gold watches are produced each year, with 90% of them being made in Switzerland. Rolex plays a prominent role in this, as they alone produce 200,000 of these gold watches. In one year, Rolex produces around 800,000 watches, making gold watches a quarter of their total production. The company produces cases in their own foundry. Gold plays an even more important role for the luxury manufacturer Patek Philippe, however. Gold watches dominate Patek's portfolio; there are only a few stainless steel models available. Usually, it's the other way around. Gold remains an expensive exception for most companies. A popular compromise is to create a bicolor watch, where parts of the case and bracelet are made of stainless steel and others of gold. Rolex calls this Rolesor.