Rolex 1908

Rolex took advantage of Watches and Wonders 2023 and presented a completely new watch collection, the Perpetual 1908. The watches in the new line are dress watches with a classic, elegant design intended to replace models in the now discontinued Cellini collection.

The name of the new collection refers to the year 1908, when Rolex officially registered the company name as a trademark. The design of the dial also draws on the rich history of the Geneva-based watchmaker: the inspiration was the first Oyster Perpetual, which made its debut in 1931.

The 39-mm timepieces are available in yellow or white gold and are among the rare Rolex watches to feature a transparent case back. This makes it possible to see the caliber 7140 inside, which was specifically designed for the Perpetual 1908. Like all Rolex movements, the 7140 is a certified "Superlative Chronometer."

A high-quality alligator leather strap with a green lining and double folding clasp, called a Dualclasp, ensure a comfortable, secure fit.

In April 2024, prices for a Rolex Perpetual 1908 on Chrono24 averaged around 28,800 USD for white gold models and 29,200 USD for yellow gold models. The dial color plays a minor role in the price.

The platinum version of the Perpetual 1908 launched in April 2024. Rolex's official list price for the new model is 30,900 USD.

The Perpetual 1908 is by far the most elegant watch collection in Rolex's current catalog. The 39-mm case is available in white or yellow gold or (since Watches and Wonder 2024) platinum, and features classic, flowing lines, polished to a high sheen. It's also significantly thinner than comparable watches from the Oyster Perpetual line.

A "split" bezel, the outer half of which is fluted, the inner half cambered, encases the domed sapphire crystal that protects the dial. The watch also features a sapphire crystal case back – rarely seen in the Rolex universe – enabling you to view the brand-new in-house caliber 7140 inside.

Caliber 7140: Designed for the Rolex 1908

The Rolex automatic caliber 7140 has an open-worked yellow gold rotor, and the bridges and plates have been given elaborate ornamental cuts. But the movement isn't just a feast for the eyes, it also has a lot to offer technically. Thanks to the Syloxi hairspring (a composite material made of silicon and silicon oxide), the Chronergy escapement, and the Paraflex anti-shock system, the caliber 7140 is accurate to -/+ 2 seconds per day and has a power reserve of approximately 66 hours. The movement provides the watch with a central hour and minute display and a small seconds located at 6 o'clock.

Simple, but Refined: The Rolex 1908 Dial

A slender sword hand indicates the minutes, while a "pomme" or Breguet hand with an open-worked circular tip indicates the hours. The dial features narrow, faceted baton indices in yellow or white gold. Exceptions to this are the hours at 3, 9, and 12 o'clock, which Rolex marks with applied Arabic numerals. A railroad minute scale at the outer edge of the dial completes the display. The dial is available in white or black enamel on models in gold.

Rolex fits the platinum versions with an ice-blue dial. This special hue is reserved exclusively for platinum watches in the Day-Date, Daytona, and 1908 lines. A guilloché grain de riz pattern gives the 1908 dial a three-dimensional depth and luster. The small seconds dial contrasts beautifully with its radial sunburst pattern. The numerals, hands, and indices of this watch are in polished white gold.

Leather Strap for a Secure Fit

The Perpetual 1908 is currently the only collection in the Rolex catalog to feature a leather strap. The strap comes in black or dark brown alligator leather with matching stitching. For the inner lining, Rolex chose a dark green.

Rolex equips the straps with the new Dualclasp. Crafted in 18-karat white or yellow gold or platinum (to match the case), this double folding clasp has a slightly curved shape that not only ensures comfort but also keeps the clasp in the center of the wrist at all times.

If you're looking for a classic Rolex dress watch, the watches from the Cellini collection, which was discontinued in 2023, are a great alternative to the Perpetual 1908. They have a similar case design and also feature a split bezel. The Cellini models, however, have a more playful look than the 1908, thanks to the use of patterned dials, dauphine hands, and a more elaborate minute track.

The Cellini collection also offers a choice between simple three-hand models to versions with a pointer date, moon phase display, or GMT function.

A last-gen Rolex Cellini changes hands on Chrono24 for anywhere between 12,300 USD for simpler three-hand watches in white gold and 29,000 USD for top models with a moon phase display and pointer date.