The last couple of years have been very good for Cartier. Their new releases were some of the all-around strongest at Watches & Wonders, with plenty of crowd-pleasers and fresh takes on the classics. On the vintage market, the brand is hotter than ever. In 2022, a Cartier Crash sold at auction for a record-breaking $1.65 million. Rare variants of the Tank, like the Normale or the Cintrée, are more expensive than they have ever been. The acrobatic Basculante ref. 2390 has nearly tripled in price since 2020.
Like the watch market as a whole, the global pandemic kicked off this surge in demand, and notable Cartier collectors like Tyler the Creator and Mike Nouveau continued the frenzy. The rise of Cartier also follows natural shifts in consumer preferences. After years of dominance by large steel sport watches, it makes sense that collectors and enthusiasts would eventually swing back towards elegant and demure timepieces. And of all brands in this category, Cartier has the most name recognition and the most to gain.
Cartier has clearly defined brand guidelines: non-round cases with Roman numeral dials. Each of these best-sellers feels undeniably Cartier, yet the attitude changes from one piece to the next. It shows that Cartier’s DNA is rich, not rigid, and that they can manipulate the simplest of ingredients with surprisingly consistent success. If you are now curious to see which models have made it onto our list of Cartier’s best sellers on Chrono24, we don’t want to keep you waiting any longer!
1. Cartier Santos De Cartier WSSA0029
In the #1 spot is an underrated everyday watch. Yes, there is a bit of irony in saying that the brand’s best-selling watch on the marketplace is underrated, but when considering the watch market as a whole, the Cartier Santos does not get enough credit. This reference, the Cartier Santos de Cartier WSSA0029, brings square sport watches into the mainstream thanks to its 100m of water resistance and screw-down crown. It’s a time-tested Cartier design that can withstand the elements and look good doing it.
The case was redesigned to match modern sizing and to flow more gracefully into the (semi-)integrated bracelet. The watch also features the new SmartLink adjustment system, making the bracelet easier to resize as your wrist expands and contracts. It also makes this watch a natural choice for a his and hers, fitting an 18cm wrist in the morning and a 16cm wrist in the afternoon.
2. Cartier Santos 100 XL 2656
If you’re the type who admires Cartier but doesn’t feel comfortable wearing a “dainty” watch, then consider the Cartier Santos 100. The Santos 100 is like the Royal Oak Offshore version of the Santos. It’s bigger, bolder, and beefier – a decidedly masculine presentation for a brand with roots in jewelry. Square watches wear larger than you’d expect, and the same goes for the Cartier Santos 100 XL 2656. This 38mm case (without crown guards) measures 51mm from lug-to-lug. For comparison, the Rolex Submariner is 48mm lug-to-lug. It’s thicker than the standard Santos but only rises to 10.5mm, so it sits flat on the wrist while exuding considerable wrist presence. The watch features luminescent hands for a sporty touch and looks just as at home on a rubber strap as it does on leather.
3. Cartier Panthère 1070
From big and brawny, we go to, well, the opposite of that. The Cartier Panthère has been named the “it girl” watch by @dimepiece.co, the internet’s leading authority on the intersection of women’s watches and pop culture. The square case measures 22mm wide, and even though square cases wear larger than the numbers suggest, this Panthère ref.1070 is still firmly in tiny territory. It does, however, have a surprising heft to it thanks to the solid 18kt yellow gold case and bracelet. You can even shoot for the double-wrap Panthère for bonus points and added glamour.
4. Cartier Tank Louis 78086
In the #4 spot is the classic of classics. When people think of Cartier watches, they think of the Tank. And when they think of the Tank, the first one that comes to mind is the Tank Louis. The watch features a manual-wind movement inside a 23mm x 30mm 18kt yellow gold case – and all of Cartier’s signature elements, from the dial to the hands to the case and even the matching yellow gold buckle. Many examples of this reference also feature “Paris” dials with Cartier’s home city written at 6 o’clock. It’s a watch that looks good on any wrist and elevates any outfit, and it may be the only dress watch you ever need.
5. Cartier Tank Must XL WSTA0040
If you’re one of the few who requires a more substantial footprint in a watch, the Cartier Tank Must XL ref. WSTA0040 might be the one for you. Measuring 31mm x 41mm, it’s considerably larger than the Tank Louis and requires a larger than average wrist to look properly proportional. This watch straddles the line between pretty and practical. The steel case is less glamorous than gold, but is more low-key and more scratch-resistant. The seconds hand takes away from Cartier’s simplicity, but the guilloché dial underneath adds a touch of class and craftsmanship. Finally, the date window is a design element that runs contrary to Cartier’s ethos, but this one is useful and unobtrusive—there when you need it and hidden when you don’t.
