Like so many enthusiasts, Seiko played a major role in getting me started in the hobby of watch collecting. To this day, I’ve never lost sight of the brand, and am always sure to follow interesting new launches and the evolution of the Seiko portfolio. I’d like to share with you some personal Seiko favorites from the past and present.
Seiko SNZH53 “Glossy”
I’ll start with a beloved classic from the Seiko 5 series that has a cult status among brand aficionados and also enjoys a special status in my watch journey. While the Seiko 5 collection continues to be very popular and is still aimed at the price-conscious buyer, this model, with Seiko’s typical but less memorable reference SNZH53, is no longer available in this form. The SNZH53is better known as the “Glossy” among Seiko fans due to its shiny appearance, or “Fifty Fathoms” due to its stylistic similarity to the Blancpain legend. Aftermarket watch component manufacturers have even offered modification kits to bring the bezel and dial closer to the look of the expensive Blancpain. My personal connection to the SNZH53? It was the first watch I bought with my own money. A quick search in my old e-mails shows that I bought it from an authorized dealer in Germany in the summer of 2016 for a mere €159 (approximately $170).
The Glossy lives up to its nickname. It’s much more a fashionable desk diver than a genuine diving watch. The main reason for this is probably the absence of a screw-down crown which, despite its 100 meters (10 bar, 328 feet) of water resistance, is likely to deter many a wearer from jumping into the pool with it. Regardless, I’ve already ventured into lakes and swimming pools with the Glossy several times. After more than eight years, I still haven’t had a problem with it. And yet, you can never feel completely at ease with a diver’s watch without a screw-down crown. You also have to do without a diving extension on the bracelet. That’s totally fine, because this watch feels perfectly comfortable without one. In terms of movement technology, this watch uses the now obsolete 7S36, which differs from the current standard caliber 4R36 in two glaring ways. First, the 7S36 does not have stop seconds. It also lacks a manual winding option, which requires you to shake the Glossy after 40 hours to get it ticking again. This shaking ritual – known as the “Seiko shuffle” – can be seen as a “special bond between the wearer and his watch,” although I find it a bit annoying. While unworn models of the Glossy are still available on the open market, Seiko released a quasi-successor in 2024 in the form of the SRPK97. This model is from the Seiko “Suits” series, and the press release made a direct reference to the Glossy. The SRPK97 comes in an SKX case with a 4 o’clock crown, and the 4R36 day-date movement. The dial and bezel are very similar to the previous Glossy version, and the watch bears the current Seiko 5 logo. With an MSRP of just under $400, the price of this successor is significantly higher. And instead of sapphire crystal, you’ll have to make do with Seiko’s proprietary Hardlex glass.
Seiko Presage Cocktail Time
Most Seiko models with cult status are probably diving watches, as evidenced by fan favorites like the “Turtle,” “Tuna,” and “Sumo.” Most of these are in Seiko’s traditionally strong three-figure price range. Personally, I’ve always been more attracted to the dress watches in the Presage series – especially the Presage Cocktail Time models. Eye-catching and unusual dials, each inspired by a specific beverage, are the highlight of this collection. The SARB065, a watch from the Cocktail Time series, was presented for the first time in 2010. It wasn’t until 2017 and the following years that things really took off. There are now probably about 50 references in this line. The SRPK93J1 and SRE015J1 were released in September 2024.
However, my personal favorite from 14 years of Cocktail Time is probably the SSA361 “Starlight,” which has a textured dial with a gradual color gradient in beautiful shades of blue. It is also one of the Cocktail Time models which is fitted with the caliber 4R57 rather than a simple three-hand movement. This movement boasts two complications: a pointer date at six o’clock, and an exotic central power reserve with a dedicated hand that sweeps from twelve to four o’clock.
Unfortunately, this reference was limited, which means you’ll have to invest around $1,000 for one in good condition. If you don’t want this – in my opinion, the most beautiful – Cocktail Time, there are other models equipped with the same movement available for around $500. Whichever one you choose, they are all reliable, affordable dress watches with distinctive dials.
Seiko’s Underrated Mechanical Chronographs
Seiko can boast legendary mechanical chronographs, most notably the Pogue with caliber 6139, one of the first self-winding chronograph movements in history. The 6139 is a fully integrated (i.e., not modular) caliber with a vertical clutch and column wheel. The only problem: the Pogue was released 55 years ago. To this day, Seiko has yet to release a movement comparable to the 6139. Well-maintained examples of the Pogue can easily cost over $3,000.
As a “consolation,” you can “make do” with something from Seiko’s newer collections of mechanical chronographs. These are powered by the – in my opinion, underrated – caliber 8R48, a modular chronograph movement with automatic winding. Due to its modular design, it’s not very visually appealing, as the chronograph mechanism is buried beneath the dial side of the watch. However, it does have a column wheel (uncommon in this price range), which makes the 8R48 different from a Valjoux 7750 or a Sellita SW 500.
A current model with this caliber is the SRQ019 from the Prospex line. My personal favorite here is again a slightly older model, the SRQ023 from 2017. Here you get this interesting movement in an elegant Presage chronograph with a beautiful enamel dial. While the SRQ019 is listed at around $3,000, used SRQ023 models are available from around $1,400 – making it a recommended purchase.
