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Chopard Two O Ten Chronograph
Chopard Two O Ten Chronograph
NZ$ 5,823
Seller
Lombard Perspectiva
RU
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Diving Automatic Navy SEALs
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Diving Automatic Navy SEALs
NZ$ 6,238
Seller
Lombard Perspectiva
RU
Cartier 1920s Art Deco Platinum Diamond Enamel Gold Shutter Clock
Cartier 1920s Art Deco Platinum Diamond Enamel Gold Shutter Clock
NZ$ 49,561
Free shipping
Seller
Watch Hunter
 
US
Breguet Classique 18 K Yellow Gold
Breguet Classique 18 K Yellow Gold
NZ$ 8,056
Seller
Juwelier Pieter Jacobs
101
NL
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Chronograph - 5960R-001
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Chronograph - 5960R-001
NZ$ 78,123
Free shipping
Seller
Watches.de - Mercurius Trading Ltd.
63
CH
Vacheron Constantin Malte Régulateur Dual Time
Vacheron Constantin Malte Régulateur Dual Time
NZ$ 27,686
Seller
Rent a Box Schmuck und Uhren AG
 
CH
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Chronograph - Stainless Steel
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Chronograph - Stainless Steel
NZ$ 11,865
Free shipping
Seller
WatchesofMayfair.com
169
UK
Breguet Classic 18kWG Diamonds 72% off
Breguet Classic 18kWG Diamonds 72% off
NZ$ 8,179
Seller
Raffi Boyadjian Watches Inc.
6
US
Omega Vintage Speedmaster Ed White / Cal.321 / Steel / Ca.1965
Omega Vintage Speedmaster Ed White / Cal.321 / Steel / Ca.1965
NZ$ 13,834
Free shipping
Seller
VintageCaliber GmbH
30
DE
Franck Muller Vanguard Chronograph V 45 Cc Dt In Titanium And...
Franck Muller Vanguard Chronograph V 45 Cc Dt In Titanium And...
NZ$ 16,438
Seller
Taleda
212
CH
Tudor Heritage Black Bay 41 Ref. 79540
Tudor Heritage Black Bay 41 Ref. 79540
NZ$ 3,239
Seller
WINGOO WATCHES
160
IT
Jaeger-LeCoultre Jaeger Lecoultre 4.5carat 18kt WG 1960s...
Jaeger-LeCoultre Jaeger Lecoultre 4.5carat 18kt WG 1960s...
NZ$ 5,823
Free shipping
Seller
Watch Hunter
 
US
Parmigiani Fleurier TORIC TECNICA MINOS
Parmigiani Fleurier TORIC TECNICA MINOS
NZ$ 957,001
Free shipping
Seller
ZEGG & CERLATI
10
MC
Panerai Mare Nostrum Titanium Limited 150 pcs PAM00603
Panerai Mare Nostrum Titanium Limited 150 pcs PAM00603
NZ$ 51,268
Free shipping
Seller
Watches.de - Mercurius Trading Ltd.
63
CH
Heuer Carrera "Red Tachy"
Heuer Carrera "Red Tachy"
NZ$ 17,592
Seller
Rent a Box Schmuck und Uhren AG
 
CH
Panerai Luminor Marina 1950 3 Days Automatic Acciaio 44 mm
Panerai Luminor Marina 1950 3 Days Automatic Acciaio 44 mm
NZ$ 9,440
Free shipping
Seller
WatchesofMayfair.com
169
UK
Tudor Monte Carlo 7149/0 by "Sultanate of Oman" Full...
Tudor Monte Carlo 7149/0 by "Sultanate of Oman" Full...
NZ$ 48,013
Seller
Watches Management
 
IT
Franck Muller V 45 T Gravity CS Yachting 5N.BL
Franck Muller V 45 T Gravity CS Yachting 5N.BL
NZ$ 121,304
Free shipping
Seller
VI Watch Guy
VI
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Chrono 146.2.25 Red Gold, 41mm
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Chrono 146.2.25 Red Gold, 41mm
NZ$ 18,025
Seller
Taleda
212
CH
U-Boat 5573 Classico AB 4/2/A 53mm 10ATM
U-Boat 5573 Classico AB 4/2/A 53mm 10ATM
NZ$ 2,440
Seller
Timeshop24.de Ltd.
2471
DE
Patek Philippe 1960s PATEK PHILIPPE 18KT YG REF 3425 CALATRAVA...
Patek Philippe 1960s PATEK PHILIPPE 18KT YG REF 3425 CALATRAVA...
NZ$ 12,338
Free shipping
Seller
Watch Hunter
 
US
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Rose Gold Arnold Schwarzene...
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Rose Gold Arnold Schwarzene...
NZ$ 47,118
Seller
KROMINI GOLD IMPEX S.R.L
 
RO
Ulysse Nardin 18k White Gold Ulysse Nardin Sonata Cathedral,...
Ulysse Nardin 18k White Gold Ulysse Nardin Sonata Cathedral,...
NZ$ 31,235
Free shipping
Seller
Tempvs Ltd
41
UK
Blancpain Villeret Perpetual Calendar Moon + Blancpain-Service...
Blancpain Villeret Perpetual Calendar Moon + Blancpain-Service...
NZ$ 8,626
Seller
Dreamwatch - fine used watches
104
DE
Rolex Lady-Datejust Pearlmaster
Rolex Lady-Datejust Pearlmaster
NZ$ 23,925
Seller
OROeORA PRINTEZIS
42
GR
Rolex Chronograph 3319 Antimagnetic yellow gold Very Rare 1945’s
Rolex Chronograph 3319 Antimagnetic yellow gold Very Rare 1945’s
NZ$ 38,247
Seller
Watches Management
 
IT
Hublot Big Bang Ferrari  Unico All Black Limited Edition , NEW...
Hublot Big Bang Ferrari Unico All Black Limited Edition , NEW...
NZ$ 26,855
Free shipping
Seller
WatchesNorte
15
ES
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5712G-001
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5712G-001
NZ$ 56,639
Seller
Artex AG
 
CH
De Grisogono Instrumento Uno
De Grisogono Instrumento Uno
NZ$ 161,941
Free shipping
Seller
ZEGG & CERLATI
10
MC
IWC 1940s IWC RARE PLATINUM EMERALD DIAMOND CONCEALED LADIES
IWC 1940s IWC RARE PLATINUM EMERALD DIAMOND CONCEALED LADIES
NZ$ 66,544
Free shipping
Seller
Watch Hunter
 
US
Hublot Classic Fusion 45mm Automatic 18K Rose Gold 521.OX.2611.OX
Hublot Classic Fusion 45mm Automatic 18K Rose Gold 521.OX.2611.OX
NZ$ 38,247
Seller
KROMINI GOLD IMPEX S.R.L
 
RO
Tudor Rotor Prince Date 79430p Steel, 39mm
Tudor Rotor Prince Date 79430p Steel, 39mm
NZ$ 3,893
Seller
Taleda
212
CH
Panerai PAM311
Panerai PAM311
NZ$ 22,786
Seller
Kounakis Jewels and Watches
 
GR
Audemars Piguet Offshore Limited  Tantale  Asia  "Orchard...
Audemars Piguet Offshore Limited Tantale Asia "Orchard...
NZ$ 53,701
Seller
10PAST10.COM
85
NL
IWC Portoghese IW371430 chronograph Boris Becker Edition 2006
IWC Portoghese IW371430 chronograph Boris Becker Edition 2006
NZ$ 12,288
Seller
Watches Management
 
IT
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Squadra Lady Duetto JLQ 7052421
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Squadra Lady Duetto JLQ 7052421
NZ$ 17,159
Seller
TimeWorld
17
CH
Omega De Ville 14k gold caliber 565
Omega De Ville 14k gold caliber 565
NZ$ 6,274
Seller
Vintage Watch Services
72
NL
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch 105.003 Ed-White-Modell  Cal.321
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch 105.003 Ed-White-Modell Cal.321
price on request
Free shipping
Seller
Gute Zeiten Leer
25
DE
Cartier Rare Art Deco 1920 Platinum ladies Pave Diamond Enamel...
Cartier Rare Art Deco 1920 Platinum ladies Pave Diamond Enamel...
NZ$ 24,261
Free shipping
Seller
Watch Hunter
 
US
IWC Platinum Portuguese Perpetual Calendar 44mm 502111 Limited
IWC Platinum Portuguese Perpetual Calendar 44mm 502111 Limited
NZ$ 41,503
Seller
KROMINI GOLD IMPEX S.R.L
 
RO
Girard Perregaux WW.TC ZEGG & CERLATI - LIMITED EDITION
Girard Perregaux WW.TC ZEGG & CERLATI - LIMITED EDITION
NZ$ 18,391
Free shipping
Seller
ZEGG & CERLATI
10
MC
Davosa Grande Diva Manual Winding
Davosa Grande Diva Manual Winding
NZ$ 1,343
Seller
Fernando Monge SA
68
ES
TAG Heuer Grand Carrera
TAG Heuer Grand Carrera
NZ$ 4,069
Seller
Reclaimed Jewels
 
NL
Rolex Submariner 5512 UAE by Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum...
Rolex Submariner 5512 UAE by Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum...
price on request
Seller
Watches Management
 
IT
Omega Seamaster Diver 300 M
Omega Seamaster Diver 300 M
NZ$ 3,695
Seller
Jewelwatch Ltd
NZ
Ulysse Nardin Automatic 18K Gold
Ulysse Nardin Automatic 18K Gold
NZ$ 2,987
Seller
Vintage Watch Services
72
NL
Rolex 18K/SS DATEJUST Royal Blue Diamond Dial NATO Strap 36mm
Rolex 18K/SS DATEJUST Royal Blue Diamond Dial NATO Strap 36mm
NZ$ 4,984
Seller
Austins Watches Inc.
81
US
Patek Philippe Mint 1950s Tear Drop 1509  Calatrava &...
Patek Philippe Mint 1950s Tear Drop 1509 Calatrava &...
NZ$ 15,943
Free shipping
Seller
Watch Hunter
 
US
Graham Chronofighter 43mm Roségold 2CFAR.B10A.C54B
Graham Chronofighter 43mm Roségold 2CFAR.B10A.C54B
NZ$ 14,241
Seller
KROMINI GOLD IMPEX S.R.L
 
RO
Rolex Oyster Viceroy
Rolex Oyster Viceroy
NZ$ 4,838
Seller
Private seller
NZ
Chopard Diamond & 18k Gold Cocktail Watch for Kutchinsky
Chopard Diamond & 18k Gold Cocktail Watch for Kutchinsky
NZ$ 10,709
Seller
Nicolas Watch Co.
 
UK
Patek Philippe Nautilus kleine Komplikation
Patek Philippe Nautilus kleine Komplikation
NZ$ 59,324
Seller
Uhren Schöfer GmbH
DE
IWC Portofino 2050 Romana Perpetual Calendar Platinum Full Set
IWC Portofino 2050 Romana Perpetual Calendar Platinum Full Set
NZ$ 15,462
Seller
Watches Management
 
IT
Breitling Bentley B06
Breitling Bentley B06
NZ$ 6,521
Seller
Jewelwatch Ltd
NZ
Movado Triple Calendar 18k Rose Gold
Movado Triple Calendar 18k Rose Gold
NZ$ 1,326
Seller
Vintage Watch Services
72
NL
Vacheron Constantin Vintage Gold Dress Watch Ref  2143
Vacheron Constantin Vintage Gold Dress Watch Ref 2143
NZ$ 7,943
Seller
Time Rediscovered Ltd
UK
Patek Philippe RARE 1940s ladies 18kt White gold Diamond set
Patek Philippe RARE 1940s ladies 18kt White gold Diamond set
NZ$ 18,022
Free shipping
Seller
Watch Hunter
 
US
Heuer Autavia
Heuer Autavia
NZ$ 9,426
Seller
MKG
 
US
Porsche Design P6500
Porsche Design P6500
NZ$ 2,773
Seller
Private seller
NZ
Chanel J12 Automatic Black Ceramic, Diamond Set, Box, Papers,...
Chanel J12 Automatic Black Ceramic, Diamond Set, Box, Papers,...
NZ$ 5,346
Seller
Nicolas Watch Co.
 
UK
Patek Philippe World Time Cloisoneé
Patek Philippe World Time Cloisoneé
NZ$ 162,755
Seller
Uhren Schöfer GmbH
DE
Longines 1492 Christobal C. 500th Anniversary Like New
Longines 1492 Christobal C. 500th Anniversary Like New
NZ$ 3,174
Seller
Watches Management
 
IT

Mechanical Watches: Technical Masterpieces

The mechanical watch is one of humanity's most important cultural innovations. For centuries, watches have been keeping track of time. Today, there is a myriad of environmentally-friendly mechanical watches running precisely without a battery.

Highlights

  • Watchmaking art - a fine piece of craftsmanship on your wrist
  • Incredible variety: a watch for every budget and taste
  • No batteries required: manual and automatic calibers
  • Famous diving watches such as the Rolex Submariner
  • Inexpensive automatic watch: Tissot PRS 516

Mechanical Watches: A Cultural Revival

Watch lovers and collectors have been enthusiastically celebrating mechanical watches for decades. Wristwatches from Rolex or Patek Philippe are considered some of the most coveted luxury watches there are, and for good reason. Both manufacturers produce mechanical timepieces that are valuable and maintain their worth. Some vintage models and limited editions even increase in value over the years.
However, there was a time when mechanical watches had a difficult time surviving. With the rise of inexpensive quartz watches in the 1970s, many watch manufacturers found themselves in extreme hardship. Some brands were forced to quit and have since disappeared; today, they are only known by watch experts. Before the quartz boom, mechanical wristwatches and pocket watches were everyday items. If you wanted to know the current time, you needed a watch, and at that time, most had a mechanical movement. However, since quartz watches were less expensive than their mechanical siblings in the mid-1970s, quartz timepieces almost completely wiped mechanical ones off the map.
Mechanical watches experienced a comeback in the beginning of the 1980s, however. Watch lovers and collectors rediscovered the charm of a ticking mechanical movement, and felt able to accept deviations of seconds or minutes. However, it was really about the technology and precision engineering inside the watch. Since most manufacturers switched to making quartz watches, fans of mechanical watches had to find these timepieces at flea markets, auctions, and in leftover stock. In those days, it was easy to get a good bargain. That changed a few years later when the demand for old mechanical watches exceeded the supply. Traditional watch manufacturers noticed this change and began to offer mechanical watches in their collections once again. New brands and manufacturers also began to spring up in abundance, such as the German brand Nomos. Roland Schwertner founded this business in 1990, shortly after the fall of the Berlin Wall.
Classic watchmaking has been experiencing a renaissance and a completely unexpected boom in sales. Wristwatches have transformed from a basic commodity to a status symbol for both men and women.

Buying Advice

Introductory Mechanical Watches

There is an abundance of mechanical watches, from inexpensive pre-owned or new models to mid-priced new watches to exclusive pieces which can cost upwards of a million euros. You can find pre-owned vintage watches from brands such as Seiko for less than 100 euros . These watches are often in good condition and are an inexpensive introduction to the world of mechanical watches. You can also find new watches from Japanese manufacturers such as Citizen, Orient, and Seiko in the 100 - 200 euros price range. There are many manufacturers, such as Junkers or Zeppelin, that use Japanese movements from Miyota in their introductory models. Miyota is Citizen's caliber department.
Swiss mechanical watches are also available at inexpensive prices. A used, vintage Tissot watch costs between 100 and 400 euros. A new Tissot PRS 516 , one of their most famous and popular models, costs around 500 euros. A highlight in this collection is the Powermatic 80 variant, with an impressive 80-hour power reserve. It's available for around 700 euros; usually, watches with long power reserves cost a few thousand euros. With an added stopwatch function, a used PRS-516 costs around 1,000 euros. New watches from this series cost around 1,600 euros. Mechanical watches from Certina, Hamilton, or Longines are in a similar price range to Tissot's.

Luxury Mechanical Watches from Omega and Rolex

The Swiss watch manufacturer Omega has an excellent reputation in the watch industry. Their timepieces are defined by their innovative technology, appealing designs, and an excellent price-performance ratio. One of Omega's most popular models is the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. This chronograph was the first to reach the Moon. Pre-owned models in very good condition are available for around 2,500 euros. New, the Speedmaster Professional costs at least 3,000 euros. Special editions like the Silver Snoopy Award Limited Edition have doubled in value: originally, the watch cost 5,900 euros, while it now costs 12,000 euros new.
Rolex is probably the most famous watch brand worldwide. There's no other brand that stands for luxury and prestige like Rolex does. The Submariner and the Daytona are two of the most sought-after Rolex models. The bicolor Daytona is available pre-owned starting for around 8,500 euros. Pre-owned Daytonas made of stainless steel, however, cost at least 10,000 euros. New, the bicolor model costs 10,000 euros; a new stainless steel model costs around 14,000 euros. Stainless steel Rolex watches are especially in demand and thus maintain a more stable value. The Paul Newman Daytona is also quite popular. This model can be identified by its contrasting dial edges and subdials. The numbers on the dial are in an Art Deco style. Models with reference number 6239 are particularly rare. If they feature a Paul Newman design, these watches can easily cost over 100,000 euros.
The Rolex Submariner, one of the first diving watches ever produced, is available pre-owned for around 4,500 euros. New models without a date display and the distinctive date magnifier cost about 6,000 euros. With a date display, the Submariner costs around 7,000 euros. A vintage Submariner with reference number 1680 and red writing on the dial costs between 10,000 and 20,000 euros. It earned its nickname "Red Sub" thanks to its characteristic red text.

Manual Winding Mechanical Watches

Every mechanical movement has multiple gears. In each movement, the energy for the movement of the wheels comes from a specific storage. In large grandfather clocks, these are weights attached to chains, and the chains must be pulled in order to wind the movement. Pocket watches and wristwatches, on the other hand, have mainsprings which can be wound via a key or a crown. The potential energy stored in the wound mainspring is released to the train in a controlled fashion. Mainsprings were also what made it possible to downsize movements. Another pioneering invention was the concept of crown winding, which made easy-to-lose keys obsolete. One of the first pocket watches with crown winding came from Louis Audemars. The business introduced this watch feature in 1838. You can also set the hands using the crown.
A mechanical movement functions very simply in theory. The mainspring receives its energy via the crown, winding stem, and wheels of the winding system. In order to prevent the mainspring from suddenly unrolling, there's a small stopwork. The train reduces the high force of the mainspring. The train's transmission is calculated so precisely that the seconds wheel makes a full rotation every minute. The escapement is located at the end. It's comprised of a pallet and an escape wheel. The escapement prevents the train from going out of control, and it ensures the watch keeps running by forwarding tiny force pulses to the balance wheel. The balance wheel keeps the pace of the movement, oscillating back and forth. It's comprised of the balance rim and balance spring, which is the beating heart of every mechanical caliber. Without the balance spring, the balance wheel along with the entire movement would stop moving after a short time. Thus, the escapement and oscillation systems form the base of every mechanical watch.
The motion train is located under the dial. Generally, this reduces the center wheel's number of revolutions by one-twelfth. The center wheel makes one rotation on its own axis every 60 minutes. Thus, the hour hand makes one full rotation every 12 hours.
Several different manufacturers are still producing manual winding mechanical calibers, such as Junghans, Nomos, Patek Philippe, and Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Technical Details of Manual Winding Watches

  • Movement design allows for flat cases
  • Manual winding
  • Runs without a battery for up to 8 days

Automatic Mechanical Watches

The invention of automatic winding revolutionized the mechanical watch, as automatic watches wind themselves just by being worn. The regular morning ritual of winding your wristwatch ceased to exist. In order for the watch to automatically wind, a rotor is used. Thanks to the constant force of gravity, it's always being pulled towards the center of the Earth. When you move your arm up and down, the rotor rotates around in the case and winds the mainspring.
Winding occurs uni- or bidirectionally, depending on the movement. A bidirectional winding system has the advantage that the movement's winding rotor is wound to the right and to the left. A unidirectional winding system powers the movement by winding it in one direction. Therefore, it takes longer to fully wind the watch. The Pellaton winding system is an especially efficient winding system. It winds the movement bidirectionally, using small movements of the oscillating mass. The inventor of the Pellaton winding system was Albert Pellaton, the technical director at the International Watch Company from 1944 to 1966.
Both winding systems have a so-called reduction gear. This converts the fast movements of the rotor into slower ones with a higher torque. The end of the mainspring is not directly connected to the barrel. Rather, the end is connected to the so-called slipping spring so that the mainspring doesn't break off. When the movement is fully wound, the slipping spring slides along the inner wall of the barrel.
Mechanical watches with an automatic caliber have many advantages to offer. For one, they're convenient, as they don't need to be wound by hand. They also don't require batteries to run, making them generally more environmentally friendly than quartz watches. Generally, automatic movements are also more precise than manual movements, as the oscillating mass provides constant tension to the mainspring. That involves constant torque, which positively affects the amplitude. Amplitude is a term referring to the degree of rotation the balance wheel moves per oscillation.
Amongst watchmakers, the in-house, automatic Rolex calibers are considered some of the best, most robust, and most precise movements in existence.

Technical Details of Automatic Watches

  • Wind automatically while being worn
  • Often more precise than manual winding watches
  • Environmentally friendly: no battery

Mechanical Watches with Special Complications

Most mechanical watches limit themselves to displaying the time and the date. Automatic winding is one of the most common complications utilized in watches. A complication is a function of a mechanical movement that goes beyond displaying the hours, minutes, and seconds. Watchmakers also differentiate between small and large complications. Small complications are, for example, date or day of the week displays or power reserve indicators. A diving watch's rotatable bezel, moon phase display, or a GMT watch's second time zone are also small complications. Complications like minute repetition, perpetual calendars, and large and small striking works are considered large complications . A stopwatch function is also a large complication. In comparison to a perpetual calendar, a stopwatch function is similarly intricate, but more common and much less expensive.
The Swiss manufacturer Patek Philippe is known for their especially complicated watches. Their 1932 Graves Supercomplication pocket watch, as well as the Calibre 89 from 1989, are considered some of their most intricate pieces. The Graves Supercomplication, a special project for the New York banker Henry Graves, Jr., has an impressive 24 complications. Among these complications are a perpetual calendar, double chronograph to time intervening periods, and different astronomical displays. In 1989, the Calibre 89 replaced the Graves Supercomplication as the most complicated pocket watch in the world. The Calibre 89 has 33 different functions and remains one of the most complicated pocket watches in the world to date. It has a full perpetual calendar, a split-seconds chronograph, an indicator for the moon's age and phases, astronomical functions, a minute repeater, an alarm, and both a grande and petite sonnerie.
One of the most complicated wristwatches in the world is the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime with 20 complications. The timepiece has multiple acoustic complications, such as a minute repeater, petite sonnerie, grand sonnerie , an alarm with time strike, and a perpetual date repeater. The watch can also function as an alarm. It can even chime the time. Furthermore, it displays a second time zone, a perpetual calendar, power reserve indicators for the going train and strikework, a day and night display, and a moon phase display. The caliber 300 GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM, which powers the Grandmaster Chime, is comprised of 1,366 pieces. The watch's red gold case is very finely chiseled, and in order to display all of the complications, the watch has a dial on the front and back side. Patek Philippe calls this "double face." There are only seven Grandmaster Chime watches in the world, one of which is located in the Patek Philippe Museum. This extravagant watch costs around 6.4 million euros.